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Ape Clutch Kit...........what you guys thinks
- alextoader750
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what do you guys think about this clutch kit. is it any good. and would i need to buy anything else or does it just drop in? i have 79 kz650sr and my clutch is starting to slip under load at high rpms. any help is greatly appreciated. thank you
Post edited by: KZCSI, at: 2008/03/06 09:18
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- kawsakiman
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cheaper and a extra disc and plate.
plus it's $ 10 cheaper.
kzzone.com/resources/clutches/aprclutch.jpg
he is very good to members here.
Post edited by: kawsakiman, at: 2008/03/05 23:14
someday i will be able to afford my kz habit.
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- PLUMMEN
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Still recovering,some days are better than others.
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- alextoader750
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- Patton
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- kzwolfsr
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1979 KZ SR650, stock candy persimmon red and crossover pipes
1981 KZ 1000LTD with non stock and more comfortable handle bars and 4 into one V&H
Original man of the Caribbean
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- KZQ
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- Walking Behind the Corn May Not Be All That!
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KZCSI
www.KZ1300.com
Riders:
1968 BSA 441 Shooting Star, 1970 BSA 650 Lightning, 1974 W3, 1976 KZ900, 1979 KZ750 Twin, 1979 KZ750 Twin Trike, 1981 KZ1300, 1982 KZ1100 Spectre, 2000 Valkyrie, 2009 Yamaha Roadliner S. 1983 GL 1100
Projects:
1985 ZN1300
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- Patton
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... have 79 kz650sr and my clutch is starting to slip under load at high rpms. any help is greatly appreciated....
Your clutch may be just fine.
If not already done, would adjust the clutch push rod (which is an entirely separate thing from slack in the cable).
Adjusting the clutch push rod is a routine maintenance item which cannot be done too often, and often corrects a slipping clutch. In fact, an improperly adjusted clutch push rod is one of the prime reasons for clutch slippage.
Let us know if detailed instuctions would be helpful.
Was remiss in failing to mention this earlier. :blush:
Good Luck!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- steell
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When we opened it up to replace the clutch we found several broken friction plates and pieces in the oil pan and on the oil screen. I had read previously that using the Barnett clutch in a 750 Turbo was a "really" bad idea, and after seeing the results I agree.
The oil screen was about 40% blocked by fibers from the Barnett friction plates
KD9JUR
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- Patton
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The entire clutch cable, clutch lever, clutch pushrod adjuster, and clutch push rod itself could all be removed from the motorcycle and the clutch would remain fully engaged with the plates held tightly together by the clutch springs. And the bike would remain rideable (as if with simply a broken clutch cable).
The clutch pushrod functions to push (spread) the plates apart against the spring pressure. A little slack before it starts pushing assures it's not interferring with complete closure of the clutch plates. The clutch pushrod adjustment sets and assures the proper slack. Without the proper pushrod slack, the clutch is more likely to slip, even with a broken clutch cable (or maximum slack in the clutch cable). With excessive pushrod slack, the clutch may fail to sufficiently disengage when the handlever is squeezed, resulting in a "sticking" clutch and/or excessive clunking or lurching forward when the bike transmission is first shifted into low gear.
The clutch cable, when in relaxed position with proper slack (handlebar lever not being squeezed), has no effect toward spreading the clutch plates (disengaging the clutch). Same as if the cable is simply broken.
To disengage the clutch (i.e., spread the plates apart), here's what happens. Squeezing the handlebar lever pulls the cable which pulls the pushrod adjuster which pushes against the pushrod which spreads the clutch plates.
Some slack is also required in the cable to prevent premature pulling on the pushrod adjuster. Having no cable slack is like always keeping the handlebar lever slightly squeezed.
KZ clutches are strong and will endure lots of abuse. Understandably, many bikes may go a very long time without any pushrod adjustment, and possibly never need a pushrod adjustment (or cable slack adjustment either). But if your clutch begins slipping under hard acceleration (not completely engaging) or "sticking" (not completely disengaging), before blaming the clutch, the cure may be a pushrod adjustment.
IMO the better routine maintenance is keeping both adjustments to specs, pushrod and cable. Especially since both adjustments are quick and easy.
As stated in the FSM (factory service manual), the clutch plates gradually wear and go out of adjustment. This wear causes the play between the pushrod and the adjusting screw to gradually diminish until the pushrod touches the adjusting screw. When this play is lost, the clutch will not engage fully, causing the clutch to slip.
Good luck with diagnosing and eliminating slippage in the clutch!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- alextoader750
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once again thank you
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- Patton
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Have no experience with yamalube oil, but if it's synthetic oil, it might cause the clutch slippage.
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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