MY NERVES!!!!!!

I was so pumped when I got my head set from z1 enterprises and just in time for the weekend:)

I get in the garage and ready to assemble the motor (head) and hoped everything will go well....well it didn't:S

I put the head gaskets on the engine and they didn't fit very well around the two inner studs..dremel tool to the rescue got over that bump.

Got all of the sprockets and gears and rubbers in place fished the chain up through and now the fun really begins. There is like no slack between the cams in the chain. I rotated the chain in the block there doesn't seem to be a kink. And to top it all of about 9 out of 16 bearing cap retaining bolts are stripped or at least wont tighten, I guess somehow I must have done this??

I can't seem to get the front cam timing marks to line up. I am just so frigin frustrated I don't even know where to begin.

I guess I will have to heli coil the stripped holes and well i'm going to get a drink....cheers. Add any sugestions if you want.

trial and error. I never really thought my cams lined up like the pic in the manual but just make sure that you have 1 and 4 pistons at tdc and then fool with the cams, count the number of links and if you at least have that amount close enough to the next timing mark on the next cam sprocket, lock it down, put on that chain tensioner and turn it manual and check and make sure nothing hits. Thats how I do it! sorry if anyone objects, but I never got a bent valve yet and did it 5 times between my 2 bikes

ok, first thing i have to ask is did you remove the cam chain tensioner? lots of slack then.

second, make sure to stuff a lot of rags around the saddle holes when you drill them for the heli coil so no shavings fall in your engine. one little piece will screw up your day.

third, did you go ahead and buy rings since you came this far allready? better now when it's apart.

and last thing, every thime i ever did this i bench shimmed my head so i didn't have to screw around later.
please tell me you did do this.

keep the faith, we can walk you through this.
keep us posted.

2bskor...the cam chain...make sure the bike is sitting LEVEL(not on the sidestand) when installing the chain over the sprocket on the crank.If the bike is leaning,the chain will not grab the crank sprocket.It will FEEL like it has,but if you're getting no slack,then it hasn't grabbed properly.

I went through this and dam near pulled all my hair out...and then it donned on me.(lightbulb)
I blocked up the sidestand(no centerstand)to get the bike level(plus I had it strapped to the rafters),and it made a world of difference.

Keep tension on the chain as you go through the motions...it'll come.
It's aggrevating,I know...but you WILL get it.

The stripped cam-cap bolts...would it be better to use,"Time-serts" there,as opposed to heli-coils?

I've personally never used them,but I have read a lot of GOOD about them...others will step up with their experiences with them.
Take a gander in the meantime...

www.timesert.com/

Thanks for the info and yep it is on the side stand but it is blocked up. Tell me this when you put your front cam in one side of the cam will be depressing the valves correct.

I think thats how I stripped the threads by trying to get the bolts to seat the elevated cams. On the rear cam I pushed down on the cam and finger tightned the bolts, still can't figure out howcome the chain is so tight, I guess the lean could be a factor. The tensioner is not installed and I didn't do rings as I only removed the upper head I couldn't budge the lower head.

I just wish I would have left the frigin thing alone I could always cleanup the oil leak:blush:

I a certain position the cams dont put on as much stress on the caps. I just put the cams in to where they are most comfortable then I get a 10mm open end wrench and turn the cams toward the front of the bike by the bolt on the cam sprocket and then I set the chain on. Keep the intake cam out and put that on the timing mark on the cam sprocket and the amount of chain links and then bolt it down. I had lots of luck this way.

Yes,one end of each cam will be elevated,like you said.
What I did,was on the low end of the cam,I just slowly and carefully tightened those caps,while pushing down on the cam.(as much as I could,anyways)
Eventually,when the bolts snugged into place,the elevated end of the cam would lower enough to get THOSE bolts started(by hand)and then torqued down.

Make SURE the cam in centered(from side to side) or you WILL snap a cap as you torque it dow!There is a ridge there,and if the cam is not sitting where it belongs,you'll snap a cap...ask me how I know this,lol.

And yes...exhaust cam first,like the Wolfman said.

Are you SURE the chain is routed properly? Not catching on anything?

Do you have a manual for the bike?

Yes I have a manual and the chain cycles freely when not on the cams.

As Sandy mentioned make sure the chain is routed correctly and not having excess below at the crankshaft or stuck on the chain whatchamacallits, the chain guides. Make sure chain guides are in their correct positions.