Manual vs auto cam chain tenioners

I see a lot of fuss made about the auto tensioner. For instance, this on Americanclassix site

puts your engine's fait in your hands, unlike the stock automatic tensioners that have a tendency to skip a beat when the throttle is closed suddenly at high rpm. This allows the cam to go momentarily out of time, and can result in bent valves and/or serious engine damage. Hydraulic style tensioners have furthermore a tendency to put too much tension on the chain guide under high rpm/high oil pressure conditions resulting in premature wear. Both problems can be eliminated with the installation of a manual tensioner.

APE says almost the same thing word for word.

Is it all true, or are they just scaring into buying them? I have the one from APE, but while adjusting it, EXTREME paranoia set in. Is it tight ENOUGH? Is it TOO TIGHT! Ahhhhhh! How the hell do you know when the tension is just right?

Post edited by: kzmason, at: 2008/02/14 12:17

just convert your stock one to manual by tapping and putting a bolt with a stop nut on it;)

Just follow APE's insturctions on the manual tensioner, and it should be OK.

The stock tensioner, over time, will tend to lose the "spring in it's step", and not remain as tight. The wedge self-adjuster doesn't stay tight, and is only working against a spring. Too tight isn't good, and too loose isn't either. Buy a new spring, or buy the manual tensioner. Just like the Harley and it's oil leaks, the Kawasaki in-line 4 is known for it's timing chain clatter at idle.

On some models (the MKII being one of them) you only need to replace the bolt in the automatic tensioner with a longer one and add a lock nut. Really easy. It even tells you to do that in the manual "temporarily" when you disassemble the engine. This keeps the tensioner locked. The stock bolt is too short to lock the tensioner and is basically just a plug.

Most folks who have trouble overtighten the APE adjuster bolt - follow their instructions and you'll be fine. Overtighten and you'll be pulling the top end off to replace that rubber roller that's now a pile of black
sh*t in your oil pan/filter. Ask me how I know that ....

In my opinion there is nothing wrong with the Kawasaki auto adjuster. I've never heard of a problem with the wedge causing the tensioner to back up in it's housing in real life. The main problem I'm aware of is the available travel is much less than the 1978-earlier manual type, so on a worn camchain, the auto will fail to tension the chain long before the manual Kawasaki type. Of course manual Kawasaki is still auto adjusting, it just takes loosening the bolt to initiate the adjustment where the auto type is 100% automatic. 80,000 on my KZ1000MKII with the auto type and I've never touched it.

I heard someone here installed one from a 900 or maybe 1000 and it has a longer plunger? Work very well, taking up chain slack.

I looked on the APE site for the tensioner setting instructions but found nothing. Does someone have a link or something?

I have them at home somewhere. If I can find them I'll post them here.

I've never seen a problem with the cross-wedge type tensioner on the 550's, but I've heard claims of them failing. I think most problems are caused by ignorance on the part of many mechanics, even dealer mechanics. They all seem to be completely oblivious to the fact that the tensioner must be removed or tension released before re-installing the valve cover. If not, the tension is way too high and will grind the guides or snap the chain. It's explicit in any manual i've seen, but people seem to not notice the warning notes.

Found the instructions that I had saved from the packaging. I'll try to post them below:

Anyone ever had luck setting one of these APE tensioners?? I just tried again tonight and I can't feel when it touches. It also seems to vary quite a bit depending on where the crank is positioned. I just haven't felt right about this since I bought it. I don't know if it's too tight or too loose


Maybe I'll go back to my converted stocker...