The Kerker is welded together - options?

This is a revisit of my kerker problem of

kzrider.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=25508

I've had the header and muffler assembly to a shop, with someone helping me heat and spray and guys pulling on it like no tomorrow. I think 25 years of heating and cooling have welded it solid. It simply will not come apart.

Anyone ever encounter this before? What did you do? It looks like it will have to be cut and re-welded. I'm not sure if it's worth that sort of effort just to pack it with fibreglas. It would help me a lot to hear from fellow KZ owners.

Thanks.

the baffle cap should be held in the end of megaphone with a screw or cap the baffle should be inside there find a piece of pipe that will fit down inside the baffle when the cap is removed and soak it down real good with zep-45 and work it side to side.if it dont come out that way remove the megaphone from the header and put something in there to beat it out from the bottem!goodluck,happy wrenching!:whistle:

never had one *that* stuck together.

what i would do is heat the tubing where it joins together. then douse it with some pb blast, wd-40, or some of what wireman suggests.

the heated joint will draw some of the penetrant into the slipped section. without waiting for it to cool much, i would then take a towel or rag or something to hold it with, and wriggle/pull it apart at the same time. if you can get it to wriggle, then you should be able to pull it apart.

also, try twisting at the same time. so, wriggle/twist/pull all at once.

if you don't have enough hands for this, call a doctor. 8^)

you can also try GENTLY tapping the slip joint with a small hammer or better yet with a block of wood. this might dis-lodge some of the rusty-crusties holding your piece of classic pipeage together.

once apart, clean all that munge out, and fit it together a few times to make sure it's not gonna stick again. if you have to force it, it's not right.

oh, i almost forgot, consult your witch-doctor, and maybe sacrifice a couple chickens to make sure he can spin the spell right. 8^)

--r

In addition to the above recomendations, try this (sometimes it works, sometimes it don't).
Do this in combination with everything else, and with the help of lots of penetrating oil.
You need two hammers, I'd try a couple of shot filled soft face hammers would probably work best.
You want to smack the joint from opposing sides AT THE SAME TIME, again and again and again. Set up a rhythm but strike so that both hammers hit at the EXACT same time from opposit sides. The object is to cause the joint to flex, kind of forcing it oval, you don't want to hit it so hard as to deform the metal perminentaly, but flex it, and by continous repitition you set up a vibration. All of this helps.
So now you get your rhythem going and work around the joint. Sometimes between the flexing and vibration this will help slip the rusty bonds of metal. Oh, and keep loading it with penetrant oil of choice.

Good luck, hope this helps.

Hi Inline,
I've had the exact problem on my DG six into one. The front baffle plate acted as if it was welded in place. In the end I destroyed the back baffel leaving the center pipe in place. I repacked the baffel and had to fabricate a new back plate. The end result was the same.
KZCSI

If you are still pulling your hair out over this inline you might try ordering some Kroil. It's supposed to work where other penetrating oils fail.

www.kanolabs.com/

Good luck!

If your pip is handy, can you tell me the OD of the muffler where it fits over the small end of the collector or better, the OD of this small end. I ask because mine is some 40 miles away at the moment and I need to go look at a new 'used' megaphone this AM.

Thanks.

-Duck

i seem to remember reading a thread here about using wax to get stuck bolts out by heating the bolt and melting wax around it and the wax will draw in then freeing it up... can anyone confirm or deny this?.. or do i need to step away from the pipe?:side:

I'm a 100 % believer in KROIL !!! I have a $50.00 gallon @ home. And you can get smaller amounts.
I've used it on stuck snowmobile shafts and it does work !!!
I've heard of people having good luck with the wax too..
But you shouldn't have to pull it apart to repack it ( the Kerker )
Just take the end cap off:whistle:
pat

Dang !!!! The price has really dropped on Kroil !!!!:ohmy: Maybe mine was $50.00 with shipping and the other spray cans....

Post edited by: patmann, at: 2006/01/25 12:38

Thanks for the tips guys. Rather than go after the header/slip-on I've been trying to pull the baffle out of the end to repack it. Not as easy as I thought.

Anyone got tips on freeing up this Kerker end cap without destroying it or the baffle that's still in the pipe? Went at it this afternoon trying to get the end cap off. Gawd I love these old bikes! I could see it being done if the baffles weren't in there. Time to get out the torch, maybe?

Slide hammer with a hook on the end would work nicely.

the baffle shouldnt be that tuff to get out,Im not saying you dont know what your doing, but are you sure it isnt pop rivited in or maybe be spot welded somewhere ? Mine is bolted in and after removing the bolt, I just give it a twist with pliers and it pulls right out... Wayne

Post edited by: Tower_Monkey1, at: 2006/01/26 21:33