Clutch Prob!

Well guys I put on a new set of sprockets and chain and the bolted that cover back on and decided to try out the shifting and well I was on snow so when I shifted to first gear, the bike instantly went into spinning its wheel. Earlier today I took it out and it was in nuetral and everything worked, even did a burnout in the snow and the clutch worked fine. now what could be wrong? I adjusted the clutch adjustment screw till I couldn't put the lock nut back on, and then adjusted the cable and at the handlebar. So I am out of ideas guys. Help!

I just have to ask myself why I didn't do a search first, but I saw fellow member with the same problem and he had all his plates stuck together, which is mostly what I did when I did my burnout. I had the bike idling for a long time before I did that and new oil too. Damm!. Might as well take off the valve cover gasket and put some silicone on there too while I am at the clutch. Good thing I ordered the complete gasket set from Z1, just hope I dont need new plates!

Is it possible that your surface of snow just didn't give enough traction to overcome the stiction of the clutch?

KZCSI

Naaaa I tried it on the well tractioned garage floor also and nothing. Also I can usually pull in the clutch and walk the bike unlike now, no matter how much I adjust it. Note that I adjusted the clutch adjustment screw on the sproket cover till I could barely put on the nut that locks the screw. Thanks for your help anyways but I might as well fear the worst and start wrenching.

When you took off the sprocket cover did you by chance take the clutch push rod out? If so maybe the ball bearing that is suppose to sit on the clutch side of the rod fell out? I had the problem with the sticking clutch plates. I ended up pulling them out and cleaning them real good and reinstalled. Worked perfectly. Now if I leave the bike sit for a long time (about a month, winter time) they will stick for a quick second when first put in gear. A quick chirp with the clutch lever pulled in then they release. If I let it warm up real good it doesn't happen. So if you can get it in neutral let it warm up real good then try it. Also might make sure that your sprocket cover is seated all the way. If the clutch cable coming out is a little off it won't seat real good and might make the need to turn the adjustment screw in that far.

Post edited by: bkitchen, at: 2008/02/06 00:55

Ok I didnt mention this earlier but this is my 81 kz1000, chain drive. I looked in the clymer manual before I can say this. My kz 1000 LTD nevr was made with a ball bearing, only the shaft drives have them. In the place of the ball bearing is a nail head looking thing called a pressure plate pusher. I took of the clutchcover and was able to pul out the individual plates one by one. I also checked after I put the clutch assy back together to see it the push rod was doing its job and it was and the adjustments I made to get it to back off show with a 16th of an inch space. After the silicone on the gasket has hardened I am going to try it again.

BTW guys would there have been a possible clutch weld if the steels have a brown like pattern from the clutch? As someone said on the other forum was to just walk out the friction. Who knows?

Went down again and started the bike and I have not yet adjusted the clutch yet. So I went down there to the garage and started it in neutral, warmed it up and put it into 1st.... bang! it shot forward and shut off. Next time I started it in 1st to see what would happen. It lurched forward, even with me holding the front brake and it started and the bike stopped lurching, the clutch stopped grabbing and I was home free so I released the clutch, slowly that is and nothing at last. I am now home free now thanks to you guys. Has always been a good forum Thanks to those who helped and thanks to those who had the problems and the ones that help them. Happy winter!

Have you checked that the adjustment is correct. Clymer only refers to the worm adjuster whereas some bikes of that vintage use a ball and ramp adjuster which is adjusted 100% the opposite way!


IE you turn anticlockwise until you meet resistance and then clockwise 1/4 turn

Dont ask how I found this out!!!!

EASY FIX ,,
Before you hurt yourself or the bike .
Just take off the clutch cover and pull the plates .
SOAK the fiber plates in clean oil .
(you will find out just how stuck they are when you have to pry them apart)
Mine does it every year after it sits for a NY winter .
Barnet and Vesra plates seem to stick like this but not stock ones ?

Plates stick allways aftyer long winter storage. I got a APE clutch kit and it tends to stick just sitting for a couple of days. Just hit the brake and clunk it to #1 gear, no worries. But if it sticks warm then you nhave to adjust your clutch both wire and push assembly under the sprocket cover.