Engine paint

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30 Jan 2008 16:40 #191886 by ahabibi
Engine paint was created by ahabibi
I would like to paint my cases, jugs, and head. I would like to use a vht product, but the flame proof product requires a curing of 30 min at 200, 20 min at 300, and 35 at 400 degrees F (I think). What is the maximum temp that I can bake my engine parts with out worrying about decking and reboring or machining everything. Also is there a better product to paint my engine?

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30 Jan 2008 18:42 #191905 by Bluemeanie
Replied by Bluemeanie on topic Engine paint
I use PJ1 satin black from Z1 Enterprises. Duplicates current black engine colors.


1980 KZ650F1, Bought new out the door for $2,162.98!
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30 Jan 2008 19:29 #191913 by jagrider
Replied by jagrider on topic Engine paint
Also try the site for paints to...

www.stoprust.net/High-Temperature-p-1-c-10.html

jagrider

Loud pipes save lives.
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30 Jan 2008 21:10 #191922 by arai59
Replied by arai59 on topic Engine paint
PJ 1...no matter the application. Stuff is the foshizzle.

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30 Jan 2008 21:44 #191924 by ZeeEuro
Replied by ZeeEuro on topic Engine paint
i actually bought the PJ today (what a coincidence). So you don't need to polish or lightly sand the surface? just apply it straight up?

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31 Jan 2008 03:07 #191940 by otakar
Replied by otakar on topic Engine paint
What I do not like about the PJ1 is that it is flat. After a while it starts to look a bit ratty. The POR-15 stays a bit too soft for my liking. I like a product called Polane by Sherwin Williams. It is a simple two part Poly Urethane and it is impervious to vertualy every chemical you will ever get on the engine. It is available in gloss and in any color. Because it is available in gloss it will stay looking nice. My company has used all three of these products on aircraft hi temp parts and there is no comparrison between them. But we are speaking of engine parts and not of exhaust headers.

74 Z1-A stock
76 KZ-900 Totaly stock vice MAC pipe
77 KZ-1000A stock
78 Z1-R 100%MINT 500 original Mi.
78 Z1-R Yoshi 1103 kit stage 1 cams Yoshi pipe. Etc
79 KZ-1300 (1400)
80 KZ-1300
81 Scratch built GPz1150R
82 KZ1000

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31 Jan 2008 05:41 #191955 by kzwolfsr
Replied by kzwolfsr on topic Engine paint
Whats the best one for headers Otakar?

1979 KZ SR650, stock candy persimmon red and crossover pipes
1981 KZ 1000LTD with non stock and more comfortable handle bars and 4 into one V&H
Original man of the Caribbean

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31 Jan 2008 10:14 #191997 by bountyhunter
Replied by bountyhunter on topic Engine paint
ahabibi wrote:

I would like to paint my cases, jugs, and head. I would like to use a vht product, but the flame proof product requires a curing of 30 min at 200, 20 min at 300, and 35 at 400 degrees F (I think). What is the maximum temp that I can bake my engine parts with out worrying about decking and reboring or machining everything. Also is there a better product to paint my engine?


I suppose you could heat engine parts to at least 250F since they can get about that hot under operation.

When I used VHT on my pipes, I made a solar oven out of a big cardboard box I painted black inside with one side cut away. I set the pipes in it and covered it with clear plastic and let the sun cook it all day. That seemed to work OK.

1979 KZ-750 Twin

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31 Jan 2008 10:22 #191998 by violentvintagecycles
Replied by violentvintagecycles on topic Engine paint
I was just going to post the same question.. So, the high heat spray paint for barbeques wont cut it? :blink:

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31 Jan 2008 10:30 #192002 by wiredgeorge
Replied by wiredgeorge on topic Engine paint
BBQ paint won't cut it... It will work fair on the cylinder block and head but the cases won't get warm enough where it will cure. It also doesn't hold up well to any chemical (gas, oil, etc).

If you are going to "paint" I would consider powder coat. It is quite a bit more durable than paint I think. It doesn't hurt the engine cases, cylinder block or bare head to heat-cure when powdercoating which involves about 400 degrees for a half hour as memory serves.

I have achieved very nice looking engine finish by bead blasting (80 grit glass bead) and then coating with a textured finish. I like semi-gloss black personally. The textured finish masks any imperfections such as air bleeding from pores, etc. This issue of air bleeding out of pores when curing is common to any finish application that has to be cured. It WILL happen as the aluminum that is curing is not real high-grade I guess.

wiredgeorge Motorcycle Carburetors
Mico TX
www.wgcarbs.com
Too many bikes to list!

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31 Jan 2008 10:51 #192007 by violentvintagecycles
Replied by violentvintagecycles on topic Engine paint
Thanks wg, will take note of that.. However, this bike is the first project ive ever taken on from scratch, wasnt planning on painting the motor, but after cleaning it it had a half faded paint job so im going to have to. Finances will not allow for beadblasting or powdercoating at the moment. If it was a bigger kz i would just wait until finances allow, as i would plan on keeping the bigger bike. This ones going to be too small for me, i see it already, so im going to be selling it after a season and looking for a bigger bike.
PJ1 huh guys? Ive tried to paint the sidecover, the cowl and fender with the kawasaki green, and man i couldnt get that paint to stick for nothing. Has big runs and drips and doesnt seem to go on evenly. Of course im not a painter either..In the future im going to be looking for someone to paint for me.. :whistle:
Hmmmm, that chevy orange engine paint is on sale... :blink:

Post edited by: violentvintagecycles, at: 2008/01/31 13:51

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31 Jan 2008 11:01 #192011 by violentvintagecycles
Replied by violentvintagecycles on topic Engine paint
WG, you still out there? Whats good to use on cleaning the outside of carbs? Have some white calcium looking stuff and just really dirty nasty grimy. TK carbs..
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