Cylinder Head Bolts

I seem to have oil leakage from the outside left and right cylinder head cover bolts on my 1981 KZ1000M-1, and have not torqued the bolts tighter to see if this solves the problem. And my question is, should I tighten all the bolts in a proper pattern order much like cylinder head bolts or would torquing just the two outside bolts that seem to be the problem be OK. Thanks for the help in advance. BIGD

Hello, BIGD, and Welcome to the site!
We're glad you're here!

This might be of interest:

new valve cover gasket from Z1E

BIGD,
Patton is absolutely correct - get a new gasket, and if you want to fix the problem correctly, get new cylinder head cover plugs as well. the rubber hardens and cracks over time, and unless you know for a fact that they are newer, that may be your problem.

You can get both gasket and plugs from Z1 Enterprises for just a few bucks. When you install the plugs, be sure to also apply some sealant around the plug before inserting them (per factory manual).

Do not attempt to only tighten the bolts, they are likly to strip-out the thread in the cylinder head (don't ask me how I know this:angry: ). Good luck, and do it the right way - not the "easy way".

Hello BIGD...to answer your question, tighten the valve cover bolts in the correct sequence. If you don't have a Kawasaki shop manual, get one (eBay is a source, they should be relatively inexpensive)...as it clearly demonstrates the tightening sequence...amongst mountains of useful info.

I have never torqued any of the bolts or gone in a certain pattern when tightening them and never had a problem. A new gasket should do the trick.

Norseman wrote:

BIGD,
Patton is absolutely correct - get a new gasket, and if you want to fix the problem correctly, get new cylinder head cover plugs as well. the rubber hardens and cracks over time, and unless you know for a fact that they are newer, that may be your problem.

You may find those rubber plugs to be kind of pricey: I think mine were like $15 each at Bike bandit, you can double that for the dealer.

When mine started to leak I ran them many years with no leak by:

1) Take off the cover, scrape off the old gasket. Save it if you can get it off in one piece. It will make a great pattern for cutting a new one.

2) Remove the plugs and clean all the surfaces of the old gasket bonder.

3) I use the black ultra hi-temp RTV gasket maker to line the curved parts of the head where the rubber plugs go. Push them in gently and use a straight edge like a popsicle stick to get them set in level and straight to the head top surface.

4) Make a new gasket (or buy one but they are very pricey). I used the 1/32" rubberized gasket material at Pep Boys and it works well. Trace it and cut it with an X-acto knife. Takes a while but saves you about $40.

5) When I re install I run a bead of black RTV across the top of the rubber plugs and across the head next to them so they will seal.

That should seal the leaks off very tight.

I alos found the torque spec on mine was too high (about 120 inch pounds). I get better results using a small 10mm wrench by hand to tighten the bolts. When torqued to spec, I actually crushed a new aftermarket gasket and it split a little: probably not a great gasket, but I still think 120 is too high.

Post edited by: bountyhunter, at: 2008/01/29 12:59