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stuck valve adjuster screws
- smockron
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i just gave my bike a sort of tune-up...i don't have a timing light or carb sync set. but i did adjust the point, cam chain tensioner, and the valve clearance. what a world of difference! it sounds different, goes faster, and runs better into higher rpms.
however, the left valve adjuster screws on each side of the bike (so on the right side, the rear adjuster. left side, the front adjuster) are stuck really hard. so much that it was starting to bend the screwdriver. i was thinking about getting a strip of metal to put in there to get some more torque but i don't know if i'll hurt anything. the adjuster screw itself isn't the strongest either; i don't want to break it.
can anybody provide some suggestions?
thanks,
aaron
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- flht1997
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Matt Milwaukee, WI
75' KZ400, (5) 78' KZ400, 76' KZ 750, 78' KZ650
78'CB750F, 78' CB550K
89' BMW R100RT
05' H-D Electra Glide
06' KLR650
Do it right or don't bother doing it at all.
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- RetroRiceRocketRider
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- ...bring in the machine that goes PING!
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If so and the screws are still stuck solid, try spraying some PB Blaster or similar product on them (a little bit mixed in with the engine oil shouldn't hurt anything) and let them sit over night and try again.
If that fails, best bet would be to remove the entire valve cover (not just the screw cover caps) to get a better look and angle on how to break them loose without damaging something.
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- Biquetoast
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- King Jeremy The Wicked
BINGO!You are loosening the nuts before attempting to adjust the screws, right?...
:laugh:
(1.) '75/'76 KZ400D - Commuter
(2.) '78 KZ750B3 Twin - Commuter
(3.) '78 KZ750B3 Twin - Commuter
(4.) '75 KZ400D - Sold
kz750twins.com
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- smockron
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i'd prefer it to be a dumb mistake on my part.
i'll give those suggestions a try. i'm not going to make the engine fall apart by removing the real deal valve cover, right?
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- RetroRiceRocketRider
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unfortunately, i had loosened the screws:laugh:
i'd prefer it to be a dumb mistake on my part.
i'll give those suggestions a try. i'm not going to make the engine fall apart by removing the real deal valve cover, right?
Hey, at least you didn't (hopefully) break anything, right?
Just get yourself a set of THESE , and it will make the job soooooo much easier.
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- Patton
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Remove the lock nut, etc. to allow fullest access to the adjusting screw. Have a screwdriver on hand that perfectly fits the adjusting screw slot. Obtain and use a piece of dry ice to hard freeze the tip end of the screwdriver. Use a pencil butane torch to heat the joint holding the adjusting screw. Then quickly use the frozen screwdriver in attempt to loosen the adjusting screw.
The theory is that the cold will first transfer to the screw allowing removal from the hot surrounding threads. You know -- expansion and contraction of metal with heat and cold, and all that stuff. Supposing regular ice with salt might also serve cooling function, but not nearly so much as dry ice.
And, yes, I know . . . but just consider it an act of desperation. :lol:
Good Luck!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- Biquetoast
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- King Jeremy The Wicked
Normally, in order to replace the o-rings, you just get some pliers and pull them out. I know its usually hard to pull them out, but I can't imagine what would be holding them so firmly in place...
(1.) '75/'76 KZ400D - Commuter
(2.) '78 KZ750B3 Twin - Commuter
(3.) '78 KZ750B3 Twin - Commuter
(4.) '75 KZ400D - Sold
kz750twins.com
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- Patton
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Ok, wow, that's weird then. I mean these things aren't evern real "screws", per se. They are just shafts with o-rings. Really the only thing that even hold them in is the o-rings, once the outer plate (where the nuts are) is removed. there isn't even any metal-to-metal contact in the shaft hole.
Normally, in order to replace the o-rings, you just get some pliers and pull them out. I know its usually hard to pull them out, but I can't imagine what would be holding them so firmly in place...
Guess that means using dry ice on the pliers :woohoo: Admittedly just grasping at straws -- anything to help loosen the hold.
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- smockron
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- Patton
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As Biquetoast advises -- these things aren't evern real "screws", per se. They are just shafts with o-rings. Really the only thing that even hold them in is the o-rings, once the outer plate (where the nuts are) is removed. there isn't even any metal-to-metal contact in the shaft hole. Normally, in order to replace the o-rings, you just get some pliers and pull them out. I know its usually hard to pull them out, but I can't imagine what would be holding them so firmly in place.
Three second removal process (after valve cover removed, and nuts and adjuster plate removed).
Tick -- heat with torch.
Tick -- touch end of adjuster screw with dry ice.
Tick -- use pliers to pull out adjuster screw.
OR NOT !
Post edited by: Patton, at: 2008/01/31 10:06
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- Patton
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