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Shifter?clutch? problem
- old650
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When I start the bike, let it warm, shut it off, pull clutch and drop trans into 1st then back up to neutral, restart bike....I can then drop it into 1st with MUCH less of a jump/twitch/jerk whatever in the driveline. It's like I'm taking up some slack somewhere when I do this.
Also, this last fall I noticed that shifting through the gears has gotten less precise. The shifter now feels a little loose/sloppy, particulary in the lower gears.
Anyone have these symtoms before and what was your cure? My clutch MAY not be properly/perfectly adjusted although I dought it. I will rule nothing out and I'm all ears as to suggestions on what to check. Thanks.
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- flrcreations
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On the left side cove for the clutch is a small cover where the clutch adjust is. This adjustment changes how the pushrod opens and closes the friction plate. It seems that the rod is not pushing the plate completely free of the clutch. That is where I would start.
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- themachine
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82 kawaski csr1000 Evolved into a streetfighter.
I love Speed! Hot Nasty Badass Speed!!!
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- kzwolfsr
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1979 KZ SR650, stock candy persimmon red and crossover pipes
1981 KZ 1000LTD with non stock and more comfortable handle bars and 4 into one V&H
Original man of the Caribbean
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- JR
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1980 kz750E1, Delkevic exhaust
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- old650
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Two summers ago I had a weekend of the lurches. Every time I put the bike into first it would lurch and usually stall. I adjusted the screw and locknut under the little left hand cover close on a dozen times over a Sunday afternoon and eventually got it right. Very frustrating.
Thanks JR. Maybe I really don't have it all adjusted properly. I did pop a cable and put an old factory junker on temporarily, although I lubed the heck out of it. I'll get a new cable/lube up and try multiple adjustments. I'll crack that FSM and go by the numbers. Thanks all, I'll try the alternatives if the simplest fix doesn't work.
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- JR
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Good luck
1980 kz750E1, Delkevic exhaust
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- bountyhunter
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On mine.
On the left side cove for the clutch is a small cover where the clutch adjust is. This adjustment changes how the pushrod opens and closes the friction plate. It seems that the rod is not pushing the plate completely free of the clutch. That is where I would start.
same problem on mine: I ended up buying a new "bellcrank" piece or whatever you call the lever that twists the helix that pushes in the rod. BTW: make sure the lever is at a right angle to the cable in the area where it is trying to depress the clutch rod. That gives max leverage and maximum "depression" of the rod end.
1979 KZ-750 Twin
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- bountyhunter
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Does it only do this the first time you shift from neutral to 1st? If so, try this: before you start the bike put it in 1st gear, pull in the clutch, and rock it or push down on the kicker. If your clutch plates are sticking after sitting for an extended period of time (hours) this should break them free and eliminate the problem when you start the bike.
I used to hold the clutch in and blip the throttle, wait a few seconds and blip the throttle.... do this maybe four times and it would free up the clutch. YMMV
1979 KZ-750 Twin
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