82 kz1000 m2 won't turn over

Just spruced up the top end of my kz, buttoned everything up and nothing. The cams are in correct. The cams turn when I turn the crank from the alternator. The ignition is set to top dead center and the in points in and the exhaust points out on the cam gears. New oil. Any ideas?

I may be all wet on this but isn't the exhaust cam supposed to point to the front and the intake to the rear?

Yeah, you are right, and that is what I meant. Sorry for the confusion. Also, has good compression, ignition coils work and spark going to plugs. New plugs gapped correctly. Battery hooked by jumpers to my other bike to good battery. I'm at a loss on this one.

flrcreations wrote:

... ignition is set to top dead center....

On earlier models without igniters, the F marks are used when setting ignition timing, (and T marks ignored). Plug should fire before piston reaches top dead center.

Post edited by: Patton, at: 2007/12/31 01:43

Patton wrote:

flrcreations wrote:

... ignition is set to top dead center....

On earlier models without igniters, the F marks are used when setting ignition timing, (and T marks ignored). Plug should fire before piston reaches top dead center. <br><br>Post edited by: Patton, at: 2007/12/31 01:43

I have the same model (M2). According to the factory manual, timing is to be set while aligned at the T mark.

A little help with that last post please. According to the Clymer, T1 is set to verticle with the index mark and F is just to the right (clockwise slightly) of T1 and about 5 degrees clockwise of verticle. I can set it differently without any problem, but if it was off merely 5 degrees wouldn't I still get some firing? Does the ignition timing move without moving the crank? As I move the ignition timing clockwise with the cam cover off and the alternator cover off, nothing moves, but if I move the alternator all the parts (cams, cam chain, and ignition timer) move. Is this correct? Also, how fast does the starter need to go to get a start? Does it just need to get it to compression or further? Not sure if it is moving things fast enough.

Some stuff needs to be done at TOP DEAD CENTER. This is why there is a T mark on the advance. Dynamic timing needs to be done at the F mark. Since you likely have an IC Igniter ignition with the OEM pickups, there will be no timing adjustment.

The concern here is is alignment of the cam shafts to ensure they are timed correctly. First, put the crankshaft at TDC by aligning the T mark with the mark on the case. Stick your finger or a pencil in the #4 plug hole and ensure that you can feel the top of your piston crown.

Pull the cam chain out on the front and install the exh cam with the arrow pointing to the front. Find the chain pin that lines up with the EX line on the exh cam and count this pin as ZERO and count 44 pins over. The IN line on the intake cam must align with the 44th pin. When you have the cams positioned correctly, at TDC (for #1 and #4) the notches on each camshaft end will point away from each other.

Lets start simple before you go tearing things apart again. Yes the starter needs to turn pretty quickly to get things firing, especially until the bike is dialed in correctly. Take the plug wires off and remove the plugs. This will make it much easier for the bike to crank in order to see if you are getting spark. Hook up a plug to each wire (one at a time) and rest it on the head while cranking the bike and see if you get spark. It is best to do this at night in a dark garage so you can really see the spark. If no spark on any plugs then you have a wiring, ignition or battery issue. The spark might not be at the right time but don't worry about that yet. We just want to make sure that there is spark then we can go from there.

I haven't done the finger check, and I will this afternoon. My concern is that nothing moves but the ignition advance when I turn the ignition side with a 17mm socket. When I turn the alternator side, the ignition advances, as well as the cams and chain. I did count the links, and am at 44 on the intake arrow. If starting with starter fluid, in my experience, it ignites right away. This is with v2's though, not inline 4's. I would think it would be the same. I do not want to kill the starter. Thank you guys for any help. I do have spark (blue strong) on each of the plugs.

The bike does turn over with the starter? Geesh, this is getting me confused. It turns over but doesn't fire although the plugs have spark.

OK... since you do seem to have an idea on how to set the cam timing (couldn't tell that from earlier part of thread), look at the ignition wires going to the coils. That is, the wires from the connector to the IC Igniter box to coils. One is black and the other is green. The green is likely the 2/3 coil and black 1/4 coil. Check to ensure that the spark plug wires from 2/3 coil are going to the 2/3 plugs and same for 1/4 which should go to 1/4 plugs. What kind of ignition is on this thing? Is it a stock ignition or aftermarket?

For reference (oem ignition)

Is it possible to install part # 21148 180 degrees out?