not sure what it is

i have a 1981 kz csr 650 H and i few problim 1 i am just never really sean this i took off the carb and under it is a round plate about 4 in around and it has 1 bolt in the center and a place for a hose so i took it off and under it is like a circle spot with a hole in the side and nothnig in there all so i could not find a hose to hook to it what is it i am new to motorcycles so it may be dumb ????????? and my other question is i no this is not the right place for it but i dont want to make 2 forum my bike is geting no spark i check light the coil 1 wire on each side has power the other does not i tryed to hook the ground end of my check light to the 1 with out power and touch the the light in to a + and it did not light up like it was not a ground even when i hit the run button it will turn over but the starter is going out have to get a new 1 will only turn over for about 15 s. till it start click geting anew new starter friday . thanx

diablo666mew wrote:

i have a 1981 kz csr 650 H and i few problim 1 i am just never really sean this i took off the carb and under it is a round plate about 4 in around and it has 1 bolt in the center and a place for a hose so i took it off and under it is like a circle spot with a hole in the side and nothnig in there all so i could not find a hose to hook to it what is it i am new to motorcycles so it may be dumb ????????? and my other question is i no this is not the right place for it but i dont want to make 2 forum my bike is geting no spark i check light the coil 1 wire on each side has power the other does not i tryed to hook the ground end of my check light to the 1 with out power and touch the the light in to a + and it did not light up like it was not a ground even when i hit the run button it will turn over but the starter is going out have to get a new 1 will only turn over for about 15 s. till it start click geting anew new starter friday . thanx

Welcome.
I think you are on the right track.

The big round cover with the bolt in the center is a crankcase breather. Just get a filter and hook it to where the hose outlet is.

Secondly, your starter is probably good. If it starts clicking after 15 seconds its most likely a low battery. The starter doesn't click it can only spin. The relay that sends voltage to the starter will click when the battery voltage drops low enough. Before you go spend $$ you might not have to, try charging the battery.

Later, Doug

it is the starter i had it out and bench tested it

i have a great starter out of a 81 csr 650 i'll sell you cheap but i also agree with StreetfighterKz
you need a new battery.
starters don't click, dead batteries do.

no it is bad i have enought got out on cars thats the noise it makes when the bendix are bad on the inside it will check for a wile and ture over but the it will go out an make a really fast clicking from where it is not catching on the inside they usually are fine till they get up to speed about 8 S till till the bendix let out

Uh huh, but the KZ starters don't have a bendix and the solenoid is mounted on the frame behind the side cover. There isn't anything on a KZ starter to cause a clicking noise. Search for "starter clutch" to understand how these things work.

Post edited by: steell, at: 2007/12/09 07:03

you can stick your ear right on it with the cover off and hear it . the other part you are talking about is back behind the panel . i mean i have tooked it off hooked it up to a car battery out of my car witch is 4 month old and i drive it ever day and it will do the same thing done it 3 times . i even tryed it on my Suzuki gs battery witch is 3 weeks old and it does the same thing . i mean when i bench tested it it was off the bike no other part but its self and a wire and a car battery if no 1 1 bleaves me and thinks i am crazy i will takes a video of it but aww you will see is click click click i will buy pass solenoid right to a battery . i am not out to make any 1 mad just trying to show it is the started and not the solenoid

No one should get mad, frustrated maybe, but not mad

The starter on a KZ is nothing more than a DC motor with a gear reduction built in the nose (behind the drive gear) it engages a gear on the secondary shaft that is attached to an over running clutch, the secondary shaft is connected to the crank via the primary chain.

When the gear attached to the clutch spins faster than the secondary shaft (engine not running and you push the starter button), the clutch engages, when the engine starts it spins the secondary shaft faster than what the gear driven by the starter, and the clutch disengages.
Unlike a car starter where if you hit the starter while the motor is running and you hear the teeth grinding, if you hit the starter button on a KZ while the motor is running the starter will just whir (nothing engages).

When you have the starter off you can see the gear that the starter engages, you should be able to spin that gear in one direction easily, but when you try and spin it in the other direction it should lock up.

The only thing that I can think of in a starter that might cause a clicking noise is a bad bearing, and replacement bearings should be available (probably a standard bearing available at bearing supply houses).

Fifteen seconds is a "long" time to run a starter (no cooling), do that a few times in a row and you are likely to burn up a starter. If the bike doesn't start in 2-3 seconds, find the problem and fix it.

The starter draw on a Ford 5.0L is around 200 amps, I haven't measured it but I suspect the starter on a KZ pulls at least 50 amps, and as the voltage goes down (battery runs down) the amps increases, and amps = heat. Cranking the starter on a low or bad battery kills an awful lot of starters.

www.z1enterprises.com can get you a starter clutch rebuild kit, and can probably get you any starter rebuild parts you need. They can get pretty much any KZ parts that are still available (many parts are NLA, No Longer Available).

Here is a parts diagram for an earlier 650 (Kawasaki.com does not show the parts diagram for your H1).



It's from the parts diagrams at Kawasaki.com

Ignore that stator/charging system in the pic, like I said it's from an earlier model and your charging system is totally different. The starter is pretty much the same though.

I'm having a heck of a time linking to the pics in the parts diagrams at kawasaki.com, for some reason the pic I link to isn't showing up but some other pic is, somethings wacky today. It's not like I haven't done this a hundred times, so I'm sure it's not me.

Post edited by: steell, at: 2007/12/10 08:32

15 is not what i mean i no i typed it but i was not think more like 3 it gets up to speed and then does it like 3 s i have had over 40 cars and my 19 years of life evers scents i was 14 . and have worked in the auto body shop / hot rod shop sents i was 16 and when a car makes that sound is is a bad starter or missing teeth of flywheel 90% of the time starter i just get a new 1 and put it on or if it cost to much just rebuild it and it is good to go i have never tooked a bikes starter apart but i will when i get my new 1 in the mail here in 7 days to see just what was wrong with it maybe rebuild it for a spair but i am 98% sure that the new start will fix it i will let you aww no if i was wrong or right and i have seen that pic befor thanx

works still aint got it running yet thow

On to the coil thing:

You have power on one wire of each coil, right? Then there are a few possibilities the way I see it. We'll cover each one at a time, to not get bogged down in the troubleshooting.

See, on your motorcycle, you always have power on one wire of your coils, at least with the key on. The spinning of the motor gives you the ground that you need on the other side is the only way that I can explain it at 5AM. What I am saying is that the ground is not always there, only if the motor rotation is at the right place.

Real common is that you do not have enough power coming in to cause the ignition coils to work. If you can get an electrical meter and check to see if you are getting good voltage to the coils, that would be good. Tell us what you get there.

Next would be to check your pickups. That is a little more involved, so we can dig into that later. You will still need that meter, and maybe someone else can help with the troubleshooting of the pickups, my manual got waterlogged and fell apart.

Start with making sure that the right wire color is going to the right coil, I made that mistake once.

Post edited by: gpzrox, at: 2007/12/19 06:03