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kz750 4 starter clutch
- KZrookie23
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So now the Question. Is it more likely that both starter clutches are bad or that there is another problem I'm not considering? I don't have a dealer near by, where might I find the kits to rebuild the clutch?
Thanks
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- hugo
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Before I replaced my, I knew a guy that only replaced springs and rollers, and was slipping two months later, so I decided to buy the entire clutch and hub, brand new to do the job. When I inspected the old one, could not find anything wrong to the naked eye. The new one worked just fine.
Another thought would be checking your engine compression. It there such a thing as too high compression?? What about starter motor, or gear??
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- flht1997
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Matt Milwaukee, WI
75' KZ400, (5) 78' KZ400, 76' KZ 750, 78' KZ650
78'CB750F, 78' CB550K
89' BMW R100RT
05' H-D Electra Glide
06' KLR650
Do it right or don't bother doing it at all.
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- RonKZ650
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321,000 miles on KZ's that I can remember. Not going to see any more.
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- KZrookie23
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Hope that makes sense to someone besides me:whistle:
Also, the starter clutch I bough on ebay was not new or rebuilt but it came from a "running bike". Kawasaki shoulda put a kick start or compression release on this bike and saved a lot of people grief!
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- Samwell
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Thanks for the responses so quickly. I should have specified the starter clutch. I have removed the second shaft completely to gain access to the starter clutch (by the way it's a little tougher, but I left the engine mounted.) The best way to describe my problem is that the starter cluth acts like the clutch on a cordless drill when you reduce tension and hold the driver. It makes a similar noise and skips. Here's why I think it's the starter clutch: I pulled the plugs and put oil in the cylinders to lube the rings and with the oil pan off I lay on the ground and press the starter button for a second or two. The starter turns the large gear for a second then the gear continues to turn, but the starter clutch (assembly) skips and wont turn the belt that is supposed to turn the crankshaft.
Hope that makes sense to someone besides me:whistle:
Also, the starter clutch I bough on ebay was not new or rebuilt but it came from a "running bike". Kawasaki shoulda put a kick start or compression release on this bike and saved a lot of people grief!
See the problem is, your bike is too new! All old bikes have kick starters...
Joking aside, I looked at the parts diagram and frankly it doesn't show me how it fits into your bike. On my '78 kz1000, the starter clutch is part of the rotor and lives behind a cover on the left side of the crank. I'm assuming yours is a friction based setup like mine is. So, if the springs and rollers that are part of the clutch are in good nick, then the shaft that they grab must be galled. In my case that would be the end of the crank itself, I don't have any chain/belts as part of the starter.
As an aside, if the battery is low and its not turning the starter clutch fast it may not grab properly, thats just a guess though.
Hope this helps...at least a little!
--
Current Rides: 2013 BMW R1200GSW, 1972 BMW R75/5
Current Project: 1978 KZ1000A2: Supercrank'd by Falicon, APE studs and nuts, Dyna Green coils, powder coated frame and fenders, Stainless brake lines, dual front discs, pods, Kerker Exhaust, 1075cc with JE pistons
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- flht1997
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Matt Milwaukee, WI
75' KZ400, (5) 78' KZ400, 76' KZ 750, 78' KZ650
78'CB750F, 78' CB550K
89' BMW R100RT
05' H-D Electra Glide
06' KLR650
Do it right or don't bother doing it at all.
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- steell
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I'll have to give some thought to how to check and see if that's the problem.
KD9JUR
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- hugo
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So far, it sounds like the second starter clutch was no good either. Am not saying you should do it again, yet, but, If I was to try the job again, would buy a brand new whole one. I know people say only do rollers and springs, but the hub could also be worn. I believe, this is one of those parts best not to buy used.
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