stripped plug hole

can somone point me out to wich helicoil kit i need?

Thanx
Nick

I just had this problem, I was able to get the right size thread chaser and run it through with a little grease to pick up shavings, worked perfect, if its too bad, someone told me Timeserts are better than Helicoils for spark plugs, check it out: www.timesert.com

-Ed

I installed 2 timecert style repairs this summer. i just went to the local automotive suply store and they had them in stock.
it came with a tapered tap so u dont even have to drill . bring the piston up to tdc anmost(u dont want the tap to hit the piston). then put a lot of grease on the tap and start tapping. continualy remove the tap, remove bits of metal from grease on tap and regrease tap. u will only get a tiny bit of mettal inside the cyl. to remove this ,take a long thin screwdriver and put a bit of grease on the end. now with a flashlight u can get those bits out.
1 more thing .my set did not have a countersink for the top of the hole. this is needed to get the new threaded sleave to sit flush to the head. i used a large drill bit by hand (dont forget to grease it too.
when u are done put some cleaner on e rag and twist it onto the hole to clean the threads then use red loctite to glue it in. i used blue on the 1st 1 and it came loose so i went to the redHope this helps. Good luck.

i think i can retap the hole, waht size tap do I need?

Nick

You can't just re tap a stripped hole and expect it to hold your plug in. Taps remove metal. Removing even more metal will not tighten the hole.
Unless you want to fork out over 200 bucks on the top of the line Timesert kit, this "Save-A-Thread" kit will be about the best/cheapest way to go:
www.shop.com/Spark_Plug_Thread_Repair_Ki...25-28652738-p!.shtml
Orielly's Auto Parts has them.
Just don't let them talk you into using a Helicoil. They have a tendency to break apart when you try to remove the plug later on. Or worse, they'll thread themselves right down into the chamber when you thread your plug back in.

riverroad
That "Save a thread" kit u are recomending says Heli Coil right on the package. oops

I used this kit or one exactly like it and had no problems. I did pull the head just to ensure no metal got inside my cylinder.

Yeah, that's the Heli-Coil brand name, but the Thread Savers are solid inserts, unlike traditional heli-coils, which aren't solid. They're more like spring coils.

ok, i will go to Napa and see about a thread saver. $200 is out of my price range, besidede Ive deen heads on ebay for about that much, thanx guys,

Nick

You may want to try calling a local auto machine shop (if you pull the head and can take it down to them). Since they already have the right tools, they may do it for less than the cost of the kit.

--unless you're like me and don't mind spending a little extra to add the tools and experience to your repertoire.

There is a good bit of info in the link that riverroad posted (at bottom under sponcered links).read the differant brands and there advertized advantages.the part i like the best is that it says the material the sleave is made from is important. the ford 1 says they use hardened aluninim .this expands and contracts at the same rate as your head and also tranfers heat the same. the time cert uses copper ,wich should be similar.
u should take this into consideration when choosing yours.also my tap did not have the lower part with the smaller threads that are like your existing thread. this 2 step threader would insure a staight hole.
it probably does not matter what brand if u get these important items covered .
Skyman makes a good point. if u can find an automotive machine shop that has a the time cert brand or the ford type, u may save a lot and get the best job.
Hope this helps in your desision.Good Luck