M8 Exhaust Stud source?

Used to buy M8 x 40mm 1.25 pitch exhaust studs over at the Carquest in Castroville but they don't seem to carry them anymore. Castroville NAPA only sells SAE fasteners. Anyone know a source for M8 studs? I couldn't find any on Marylandmetric.com where I buy the bulk of my fastners for my business. I know Z1Enterprises.com sells OEM M6 studs but I don't need M6 studs.

Not this one?

Z1E 8mm stud

Post edited by: Patton, at: 2007/11/03 18:27

Post edited by: Patton, at: 2007/11/03 18:28

Thanks! I did look on Jeff's site, did a search on the exact phrase that came up as well as "stud" and only found the M6 guys. I have been up in the shop. One of my carb test bikes has been out of service for months and I finally got around to swapping a good engine into the bike from my spares. I am putting a 78 KZ1000 1015cc engine in and all the studs were removed (probably by me for some reason). I need to track down a master cylinder as well as the one on the bike was leaking slightly and the thing is full of air and the paint on the m/c is rotted... it isn't the seal on the top as I had replaced that part; it is actually leaking between the metal and plastic I think. Should have the bike back on line next week I hope. I had painted it purple but the color used to make me ill to look at it so I shot it with primer... not sure what I will do about the paint hehe

Regarding installation of new exhaust studs, here's some interesting information from an earlier thread


Jeff.Saunders wrote:

Before you do anything, make sure you have the correct end going into the head. Most double-ended studs have the thread at one end slightly oversized to bite better in the head. If you attempt to put a nut on a stud, it should go on easily at one end, and be too tight at the other end - that's the end to go into the head.

Double nutting the stud to insert it is OK, but try and use thick nuts with as many threads as possible - some of the nuts are too thin and will stress or strip the threads.

So far I've never needed to use loctite - although it probably won't hurt.

I would run a tap down the thread to clean it up before inserting a new stud.

Note of caution ---

Recall reading in a previous post that some of the stud holes end up very close to an oil channel in the head.

If using a tap to clean up the threads before screwing in the new stud (or doing drilling or any other work inside the thread hole), be careful not to cut on through the deep end and into an oil channel.

Note of caution ---

Recall reading in a previous post that some of the stud holes end up very close to an oil channel in the head.

If using a tap to clean up the threads before screwing in the new stud (or doing drilling or any other work inside the thread hole), be careful not to cut on through the deep end and into an oil channel.