Where ya get that from

This question comes from another thread here about compression. I've noob-iliciously discovered that engines fall below Kawasaki's "wear limit" rather quickly...

I have a kz440 with only 10k on the odo BUT initial compression readings of (at best) 85psi. So yeah. this engine ain't gunna live much longer right?

So I just gotta ask mostly because I'm now feeling disappointed about compression numbers vs miles vs what Kawasaki stipulates as "wear limit - 107 psi"...(staring pitifully over my shoulder at my 85psi twin with only 10k on the odo?! :S

WHAT DOES EVERYONE DO TO REBUILD THEIR ENGINES?

I can't find anything for parts at my local dealer unless i can provide him with over a week's notice and some good detailed info (and even then, I skeptical about him since he sold me the wrong spark plugs last week).

I've searched eBay for almost every word I can think of and find little more than seals and gaskets as new parts.

So where do all you guys get yer new big bore pistons and rings and bearings and wrist pin bushings and geez the list goes on ?????

I'm thinking at this point, screw this hagged-out Kow. I got a large brush fire to start and this thing would start it off right... :dry:

wrenchmonkey wrote:

This question comes from another thread here about compression. I've noob-iliciously discovered that engines fall below Kawasaki's "wear limit" rather quickly...

I have a kz440 with only 10k on the odo BUT initial compression readings of (at best) 85psi. So yeah. this engine ain't gunna live much longer right?

So I just gotta ask mostly because I'm now feeling disappointed about compression numbers vs miles vs what Kawasaki stipulates as "wear limit - 107 psi"...(staring pitifully over my shoulder at my 85psi twin with only 10k on the odo?! :S

WHAT DOES EVERYONE DO TO REBUILD THEIR ENGINES?

I can't find anything for parts at my local dealer unless i can provide him with over a week's notice and some good detailed info (and even then, I skeptical about him since he sold me the wrong spark plugs last week).

I've searched eBay for almost every word I can think of and find little more than seals and gaskets as new parts.

So where do all you guys get yer new big bore pistons and rings and bearings and wrist pin bushings and geez the list goes on ?????

I'm thinking at this point, screw this hagged-out Kow. I got a large brush fire to start and this thing would start it off right... :dry:

You're right that 440 is copmlete trash! Let me take it off your hands. Put it in a big box and mail it to me today!

Seriously though, most hop-up parts are for bigger machines like the 1000cc bikes. Does your bike run? Well? 85psi probably isn't enough to even start your bike. Make sure your gauge is good and that your doing it properly - its trickier than you think. Kawasaki may not have the oversize pistons available anymore. Performace exhausts are limited to Laser (european) and Mac.

You can still get the clubman bars, steel braided lines, good brake pads and have a hoot with a small twin.

Sam

There's gotta be some rings for it somewhere, and you can lap the valves, but that would be about all I'd do to it. I'd probably use the same pistons and pins though.
Or, you can load it up with STP to get the compression back up for a while. And I have seen some decent looking bobbers made out of them. I wouldn't throw it away just yet.

Yeah, I used to have a 440 too. I remember that some parts were hard to find. There are a lot more parts still available for the 1000s, and that's part of the reason I traded up.

You might try contacting the folks at Z1 Enterprises. I didn't see 440 rings on their site, but I've found that often, if you talk with them, they can still get things that might not be advertised on their site.

wrenchmonkey wrote:

....WHAT DOES EVERYONE DO TO REBUILD THEIR ENGINES?

I can't find anything for parts at my local dealer unless i can provide him with over a week's notice and some good detailed info....

Hey wrenchmonkey; with fifteen posts you are still new enough to say again, welcome to KZR.
I may have misinterpreted, but it sounds to me like you may be asking for a 'punch-list' of things to check as well as what all to do before you tear down and when you rebuild/reassemble. Possibly even the availability of a kit with the gaskets and seals, etc without having to order every single item individually. Am I close?

How did you do the compression check? Throttle must be wide open for accurate measurement

Maybe you have some valve clearance issues! If a valve isn't closing completely you will lose some compression!

If the bike has been sitting for a long time the rings may be stuck to the pistons. Some try Marvel mystery oil to free the rings.

Rings: (plug in the word "piston" for "parts"
Rings from Klasmo

Have you tried asking here:

www.kz400.com/

Post edited by: 650ed, at: 2007/10/23 12:24

Post edited by: KZCSI, at: 2007/10/25 02:41

wrenchmonkey wrote:

This question comes from another thread here about compression. I've noob-iliciously discovered that engines fall below Kawasaki's "wear limit" rather quickly...I have a kz440 with only 10k on the odo BUT initial compression readings of (at best) 85psi. So yeah. this engine ain't gunna live much longer right? .

Let's say odo is correct at 10k, which imo is just "broken in" unless run abusively hard and without changing oil and filter.

...So I just gotta ask mostly because I'm now feeling disappointed about compression numbers vs miles vs what Kawasaki stipulates as "wear limit - 107 psi"...(staring pitifully over my shoulder at my 85psi twin with only 10k on the odo?! ....

Although all or most of this is probably already known, here are some basics:

Often as not, improper (too tight) valve clearance is the main reason for low compression. Easy to check, and imo too often neglected. Wouldn't be surprised to find a 10k KZ400 which never had valve clearances checked.

Compression test should be made with throttle held in wide open position.

Possible even on low-mileage engines where parked and allowed to remain unused (without proper long-term storage prep) for rings to become stuck inside the piston groves. If so, would apply PJBlaster (or other thin penetrating type oil) through spark plug holes, and allow to sit for a day or so or more up to a week, replenishing daily, turn engine over occassionally without cranking -- all in an effort toward freeing the rings before cranking the engine. If still available, Yamaha has a lube specially designed and sold for this very purpose.

Couple of questions, please - - -

Any sign of excessive blow-by through crankcase vent?

Has leak-down test been performed to assure compression is leaking past pistons and rings into crankcase (as opposed to leaking past supposedly closed valves)?

Hoping for a simple, cheap, easy fix.

P.S. Yep -- Seeing where harm already said it better!

Post edited by: Patton, at: 2007/10/23 12:45

The good news is that on the 440s it is quite easy to check and adjust valve clearances, as they don't use shims. All you need is some wrenches and some feeler gauges and you can make the adjustments quite easily.

You don't even need to remove the head cover. Just remove the 4 caps and stick your gauges in there to check the clearance.

Post edited by: Skyman, at: 2007/10/23 12:55

650ed wrote:

Rings: (plug in the word "piston" for "parts"
Rings from Klasmo

Have you tried asking here:

www.kz400.com/

Post edited by: 650ed, at: 2007/10/23 12:24

I don't even own a 400, but I think that is a well organized and informative site. Where else can you, for example download a complete shop manual, cover to cover?

Post edited by: KZCSI, at: 2007/10/25 02:42

Seriously?! Damnit..I'm getting a 440 then.

Stupid under-bucket shims..

JimatMilkyWay wrote:

I don't even own a 400, but I think that is a well organized and informative site. Where else can you, for example download a complete shop manual, cover to cover?

Yeah, when I had my 440, I was on that site all the time. They have a lot of 440 info too, not just 400s.