Clutch adjustment ????

Rode FrankenBike (82 KZ550 C3 LTD) to work for the first time this morning. Great ride, until I parked.

This problem has happened before while still "under construction", but I thought I had it fixed. The clutch worked fine all the way in, but when I parked and pulled the clutch lever in, it popped, the lever is free (cable is still attached), and the clutch remains disengaged. The clutch plates are fine, I installed a new clutch cable last week (still in one piece), and adjusted (and re-adjusted) according to Clymer to the letter. My clutch release is the 3-ball riser type (not the worm gear).

My guess is that I have the clutch adjusted too tight. I'm imagining pulling the release past the ball channels to the flats on the steel drum, and the return spring on the cable isn't strong enough to counteract the clutch return acting on the rod. It's a relatively simple repair: put slack in the cable, remove the cover plate, re-seat the release mechanism, put the cover back on, and readjust the clutch. I need to do this at lunchtime today so I can get back home.

Is there something Clymer is not telling me? Am I really just wound too tight?

Your assistance is much appreciated.

Dangit! I was just reading other threads regarding this problem, and correct me if I'm reading it wrong, but it appears the Clymer is WRONG when it describes clutch adjustment. The procedure in the manual is exactly opposite for the 3-ball mechanism. Instead of "in all the way, then out 1/2 turn", I should go "out all the way, then back in 1/4 turn"

This forum is chock full of great information.

I'm of no help here, but basically the adjustment on the engine does the same thing as just adjusting the cable length. I've never seen the need to fool with the engine at all. Just adjust the cable for the correct free play and all done. If you're saying the clutch is stuck "disengaged", meaning it's stuck like the clutch lever is pulled in, that would be very strange and I've never heard of that happening. If you mean the clutch is stuck "engaged" like what happens when a cable simply breaks, you probably just did not have the cable seated correctly in the engine when you replaced the cable and it snapped into place so you need to readjust. Either that or a Chinese cable was used and it already broke.

Similar happenening to me. The pushrod wore through where it comes through the case and broke off. Former owner must have abused it.....chris3

When the clutch is fully engaged, the clutch plates are held tightly together by the clutch springs.

The entire clutch cable, clutch lever, clutch push rod adjuster, and clutch push rod itself could all be removed from the motorcycle and the clutch would remain fully engaged with the plates held tightly together by the clutch springs. And the bike would remain rideable (as if with simply a broken clutch cable).

The clutch pushrod functions to push (spread) the plates apart against the spring pressure. A little slack assures it's not interferring with complete closure of the clutch plates. The clutch pushrod adjustment sets and assures the proper slack. Without the proper pushrod slack, the clutch is more likely to slip, even with a broken clutch cable (or maximum slack in the clutch cable). With excessive pushrod slack, the clutch may fail to sufficiently disengage resulting in a "sticking" clutch.

The clutch cable, when in relaxed position (not being squeezed), has no effect toward spreading the clutch plates (disengaging the clutch). Same as if the cable is simply broken.

To disengage the clutch (i.e., spread the plates), here's what happens. Squeezing the handlebar lever pulls the cable which pulls the pushrod adjuster which pushes against the pushrod which spreads the plates.

Some slack is also required in the cable to prevent premature pulling on the pushrod adjuster. Having no cable slack is like always keeping the lever slightly squeezed.

KZ clutches are strong and will endure lots of abuse. Understandably, many bikes may go a very long time without any pushrod adjustment, and possibly never need a pushrod adjustment (or cable slack adjustment either). But if your clutch begins slipping under hard acceleration (not completely engaging) or "sticking" (not completely disengaging), before blaming the clutch, the cure may be a pushrod adjustment.

IMO the better routine maintenance is keeping both adjustments to specs, pushrod and cable. Especially since both are quick and easy.

As has been said before if you have the ball and ramp system the Clymer manual adjustment process is incorrect.

I had this problem on my Z1000J where the clutch case lever would over rotate, pushing the rod in and locking the clutch disengaged. It was only by dismantling it I found out how the mechanism worked. If you take the cover off the clutch will unlock from disengaged as the push pressure is removed.

To reduce clearance screw Anticlockwise until resistance is met and then back off 1/4 turn clocwise to give clearance. Once I did this I have had no further clutch problems

Post edited by: Kiwiz, at: 2007/09/23 15:40

SkyPilot, your analysis is correct, the 3 balls will pop out to flat surface. This is easily quick-fixed by loosening the bolts holding the engine cover (sprocket side in a J-engine). To fix the problem permanently isn´t easy. I tried to adjust it several times but it still popped out. Finally I had play with the lever free play so that it cannot pull out the assembly.

Yeap, KiwiZ is right. In some books (Clymer)the procedure is explained wrong.

And you must adjust first the engine side pushrod assembly and then the clutch-lever-free-play as Patton says. Otherwise it just won´t work properly.

Thanks all for your input. I adjusted the clutch according to spec, except that I did the opposite of the Clymer on the release mechanism, and it's working great. Of course, just as I get one issue settled, another pops up. My front caliper is locking up, though not catastrophically. Right now I have the master cylinder and caliper disassembled for rebuild, and I just ordered a new brake line.

Oh, and a friend gave me a bell to ward off the Evil Road Spirits and keep the gremlins away. :evil: So after I fix the front brakes, I should be immune from future problems. Right!!!

Skypilot54 wrote:

... get one issue settled, another pops up. My front caliper is locking up, though not catastrophically. Right now I have the master cylinder and caliper disassembled for rebuild, and I just ordered a new brake line....

Brakes -- Oh yeah, Baby! -- now we can really get cooking! :lol:

Would suggest probably best to move separate brake question to chassis forum.

Going out on a limb here, and guessing that your caliper lock-up might be caused from aged brake fluid, and lack of bleeding. Dot 3 and 4 absorb moisture, and need replacing/bleeding at least annually. Have fun rebuilding the master cylinders and wheel cylinders. You might as well do both front and rears while you're at it.

Brakes are more important that anything else on your bike. You gotta stop.

I'll start a new thread in the appropriate forum.