Cam Chain

Ok here it goes. Over the winter I need to change my base and head gaskets. My question is this, when you remove the cams and the head(s) the manual shows you the timing marks and how you have to keep the chain tied up so it wont fall in the crank case but can the chain slip off of the crank and when you reassemble the amount of links would be off thus your timing. I understand the steps in my klymers manual but this is in the back of my head .

Anyone that has done this job please pitch in some tips and or tricks.:side:

Also would you get your valves serviced (check and or fix clearances) before or after the motor teardown.

Post edited by: 2bskor, at: 2007/09/19 21:57

are you asking if the cam chain slips off the crank sprocket then you put it back on but just not in the same tooth the timing would be off?? you can do a valve job with the head off on the bench...that way you can check your valve guides...and while youre at it might as well replace those valve seals...a real bear to get to too

Hey 2b - Don't sweat it if you drop the chain down into the engine you will be able to fish it out with a long, skinny magnet. You do not want to drop in any of the cam chain roller parts though so be real careful when removing rollers and any bolts.

Remove the point cover on the right side of the engine and you will notice a shaft that works the ignition. Simply grab the chain with both hands and pull it up and tight. Have someone roll over the engine a couple of times with a 17 mm socket on the ignition shaft. If the chain moves smoothly in your hands then it is in position.

Slip the cams in while pulling on the cam chain to keep it on the crank sprocket. Carefully put in the exhaust camshaft lining up the marks level with the head's surface. Keep the chain tight and do the same for the intake cam as stated in the manual.

It does not matter what tooth on the crank pulley the cam chain settles on, just make sure that it doesn't jump off the crankshaft. Try not to have the chain move when lining up the camshaft marks and the correct pin spacing of the cam chain. These marks are shown in your manual and on the intake and exhaust camshaft sprockets.

Do the upper end work when you have the cylinders off to do the base gasket. I have replaced a base gasket without having to slide the cylinders up over the pistons and rings. (This might raise the hackles of some folks but I did the base gasket like this last riding season and it hasn't leaked a drop of oil yet.)

Line up the four pistons to where they are even half way up the cylinders. Carefully wiggle the cylinders upwards to a couple or three inches so you can get to the cylinder base and engine cases top. Simply put a thin bead of high temperature liquid gasket goop, cut the base gasket in half and put on the two pieces. The gasket goop will hold the base gasket in place once it is lined up correctly.

There is a lot of info in the archives on doing the valve work yourself. As long as you have some basic hand tools you should be fine.

Cheers-Colin Firth-Ontario Canada

Post edited by: reborn650, at: 2007/09/20 09:48

Don't worry about the cam chain coming off the crank sprocket. The reason you need to tie up the cam chain is to keep it from falling down into the crankcase and having to fish it out later. When it comes time to put everything back together, you line up the crank timing marks and the cam timing marks and count the links to make sure the chain is in the correct place with respect to the two cams. After is is all together, turn the crank SLOWLY to make sure nothing went together wrong and you ding the valves. Remember to use a torque wrench on the cam bearing caps. They are small bolts and will strip out the threads in the head easily. Just follow the manual instructions.....chris3

One more word of caution. Look very closely at the timing marks on your cam sprockets and be 100% sure when you reassemble you are using the right marks. Once I reassembled my MKII and went to put the cams in and line up the marks and the darn sprockets had multiple markings on them. I was a little bit unsure which mark was the correct one, then after a little thinking I thought I had it figured, put the cams in, turned the engine over and had 4 bent valves. Didn't use the right marks. I'm not the first or last either as I've read it here a few times where guys find they have gobs of valve clearance after reassembling a KZ1000 and did the same mistake. Just be careful.

a great way to keep track of the marks is to put some whiteout on the EX and Z/5 lines (if those are ones on your cranks). It makes it obvious where to line stuff up when you're putting it back together, and the whiteout won't hurt a thing in there.

My question now is whether or not the chain placement matters - or if it's the number of pins? Does the cam timing mark have to line up with a pin for it to be proper, or the top of a link?.. then count off 43 for mine.

any engine i work on i line up the 1 piston top dead and just mark the cams in a spot i can easily see, that way i dont have to go through all the crap like 28pinshalflink180degwithbigtoeonfireandstandfacingthesun. Hey u can always use the book method to check your work. then laugh at the way they had you going.

nads.com wrote:

any engine i work on i line up the 1 piston top dead and just mark the cams in a spot i can easily see, that way i dont have to go through all the crap like 28pinshalflink180degwithbigtoeonfireandstandfacingthesun. Hey u can always use the book method to check your work. then laugh at the way they had you going.

So it's facing the sun. Knew something was wrong.

that's kinda useful.. I guess :lol:

So really..should it be dead on a pin, or does a couple of slots make a difference?

Liking nads' method -- just takes more whiteout.