Intermittent valve noise

Hello,

I have a 1992 KZ1000P with 26K on it and I get an intermittent "tick" that seems to come from the top right side of the engine. This noise will come and go. Some times when I ride longer it goes away and then will come back ( at first I thought the valve system could have a bad or blocked oil passage, that is a total guess on my part). Speed doesn't seem to make a difference and the tick is consistent with engine speed. I have not checked the valve adjustment yet as I wanted to see if anyone on the board was familiar with this noise.

The only thing that I seem to correlate to the noise it that the KZ chirping or cricket type noise on acceleration seems to be more pronounced when the tick is not there and less pronounced when the tick is loud. The bike runs well. Sometimes it is quiet other than the normal valve noise and other times it ticks or clacks from the valves.
I did check the air suction valve to make sure air only passes one way as described in the Clymer manual and it is functioning properly.

Could a noise like this that comes and goes be related to the cam chain or possibly to the air suction system or reeds in the exhaust head? I wonder about the "air" system as the cricket noise gets louder.

I don't seem to have any drop in power or anything like that although
it seems to run better when it is quieter, although that is probably just me!

Has anyone experienced a valve noise that comes and goes like this? When the tick is not there the motor runs really smoothly like a sewing machine then all of the sudden it will start ticking. Nothing seems to change it like revving it up or stopping starting the engine.

Any advice appreciated.

Thanks,
Bill

it is sooooo much better to hear a valve ticking
than it is to smell them burning.
ticking means that the valve is fully seating and transferring heat back into the engine while cooling itself for instants at a time. Cam Lobe and bucket wear has never been a problem from slightly excessive valve lash adjustments.

oil temperature will effect the viscosity as well.
hot oil=ticking
cold start up until oil pressure gets between the cam lobe and bucket= ticking

speaking of viscosity....do you use motorcycle specific oil??
shear factor from the transmission will tear the body of the oil apart very quickly even though it looks fine.

check valve lash and wetness up top, it dosent take much to keep these engines happy and healthy.
adjust camchain tensioner too
then accept normal engine noise for what it is.

Post edited by: trippivot, at: 2007/09/18 09:58

Here's why you hear the noise - the valve bucket fits in a bore similar to how a piston fits in the cylinder. There are no rings of course, but there is a close tolerance fit. The face of the cam lobe is ground at a slight angle so that when it depresses the valve it rotates it maybe 15 degrees while opening the valve.

The reason the design has this feature is that it rotates your valves to keep them seating evenly, reduce carbon buildup and keep all valve train wear even.

You can sometimes see a slight circular wear pattern on the top of the shims - now you know why.

If you are doing regular valve maintenance you should not be concerned.

Ya know, I had that same exact intermittant ticking noise coming from exactly the same place. I even went so far as to buy a new valve cover gasket, end plugs etc. in preparation of checking the valve clearances. But then I had a revelation. I never checked to see if it was just an exhaust leak. I took a toothpick and stuck a piece of tissue paper on the end of it and held it near my #4 exhaust pipe flange. Sure enough, that tissue paper started jumping around when I got to one side of the pipe. Put new exhaust seals in and the ticking stopped. And I coulda sworn it was a valve problem.

Thanks for all the advice I did check the exhaust bolts and all seemed tight but I will try the tissue paper test and then it's time to check the valves and the valve train to see what may be going on.

I do use motorcycle specific oil rather than auto oil because of the wet clutch on all of my bikes.

Thanks again!

Post edited by: fweep, at: 2007/09/18 11:05

Post edited by: fweep, at: 2007/09/18 11:06

Yah, I did check my exhaust nuts and they were all tight, so I went back to checking the valves, but then I remembered the old tissue on a toothpick trick, and found the problem.

hello group!

On the KZ1000p yahoo forum where I had also posted the same question I got a reply that seemed interesting and wondered if it sounds possible....

"It is a result of extended idling on the side stand. The #4 exhaust valve overheats and warps and when it rotates to the right position it ticks. Mine does it too. The original operator never read the owners manual that says NOT TO IDLE THE BIKE ON THE SIDE STAND"

So, I guess that is one thing to check for sure when I get the valve covers off, if it's not an exhaust leak as suggested by Riverroad.

I appreciate all of the comments!

fweep wrote:

hello group!

On the KZ1000p yahoo forum where I had also posted the same question I got a reply that seemed interesting and wondered if it sounds possible....

"It is a result of extended idling on the side stand. The #4 exhaust valve overheats and warps and when it rotates to the right position it ticks. Mine does it too. The original operator never read the owners manual that says NOT TO IDLE THE BIKE ON THE SIDE STAND"

So, I guess that is one thing to check for sure when I get the valve covers off, if it's not an exhaust leak as suggested by Riverroad.

I appreciate all of the comments!

Kinda weird for Big K to tell owners not to idle on the side stand. I guess the theory is that #4 is on the high side when the bike is leaned on the side stand, so it runs leaner?
My bike didn't come with a center stand. I haven't read my owners manual in years, but I don't think they put that warning in my manual.

you do not have a warped valve stem.

first of all, the miss it would cause at idle would be 10 times worse than a little ticking you are worrying about.

even on a wanked side stand the high volume oil pump these bikes have supplies twice the oil required to keep the buckets lubed and cool.

not letting it run on the sidestand is a saftey issue. the assumption is to prevent a unattended running machine accident.

oh well... the valves tick,the clutch basket klunks, sometimes the camchain whines, the transmission is notchy, love it or spend valuable time and money trying to fix what is not broken

Yeah, I've learned that about this machine. She makes little noises that tend to make you worry.
I find that the best way to get those pesky noises to stop is to put your fingers in your ears and go, LA-LA-LA-LA, or just run an open header. Then you just don't hear them as much.

Well, since I am not having any performance issues, I think I will just check the valve clearances and then keep riding it with the tick.

I originally wanted to see if I would be doing any engine damage, but from many posts here and on another board, these motors are or can be on the noisy side.

As trippivit states:
"the valves tick,the clutch basket klunks, sometimes the camchain whines, the transmission is notchy, love it or spend valuable time and money trying to fix what is not broken "