ape tensioner for a 750

I ordered this tensioner for my 82 kz750 from z1e and when I recieved it the packaging is labeled for a big four cylinder like 900 1100. Is this still a direct replacement or do I need to get the correct one still? Can't get on their website for some reason or I'd call and ask... thanks

If I am not mistaken the APE adjusters are interchangeable between the 650/750/900/1000 and possibly the 1100 motors.

Measure and compare the spacing on the mounting bolts with the opening on the back of the cylinders. They should match up. I put a factory Kawasaki cam chain adjuster from an old 900 on my 650 and they matched up perfectly so this tells me that the measurements are standard across the Kz 650-1000 line.

I have since switched to the APE adjuster and won't go back to the factory Kawasaki manual or automatic-style adjuster.

Cheers-Colin Firth-Ontario Canada

reborn i have been thinking about ordering one of these. what is the advantage of it. i have heard it eliminates the cam noise. are there any performance gains. does it help with parts wear? just a few questions. would like to know your thoughts on this.

sometimes the stock cam adjuster can malfunction causing slack in the cam chain messing up your timing and making things ugly bad. ugly betty bad.

Yeah,

Does that happen when the motor is still mostly stock though?

I those roller (bike chain) cam chains will jump but will the crazy endless plate they used on the later models fail?

I mean, it seems to me like a pretty strong setup. Annoyingly noisy though, would consider the APE if it cuts down on all that noise! I wanna hear my motor, not a freaking chain saw.

And don't worry, my bike doesn't really sound like a chain saw

Thank you, getting it done very soon then. Maybe next month... No time for anything!

I've used both and can't say that the APE unit is any better than stock in my experience. In theory it's supposed to prevent the stock tensioner "backing off" when the chain lashes against it after you slam the throttle shut at high rpm, but as I've never known that actually happen in 20+ years of abusing 650/750s I wouldn't worry about it too much.

Post edited by: Lorcan, at: 2007/08/22 16:25

lorcan you are the go to guy with a 750. if it doesnt really help as far as wear and performance does it at least cut down that damn "chainsaw"(lol) noise?:blink:

810gpz750 wrote:

reborn i have been thinking about ordering one of these. what is the advantage of it. i have heard it eliminates the cam noise. are there any performance gains. does it help with parts wear? just a few questions. would like to know your thoughts on this.

These tensioners are 30 years old. Springs wear out and the pushrod can get grooved from previous owners over-torquing the locknut. Both of these things happened to me.

With the APE adjuster you can actually set the tension to your desired level and then lock it. It won't back out on you.

I had two stock adjusters go bad on my rebuild. I was certain the pushrod extended far enough but it didn't ( I shouldn't have had Lynyrd Skynrd blasting som much on my stereo). Went to fire the bike and the camchain jumped a tooth and bent a valve.

For the money, the APE adjuster offers me piece of mind that the tension is a set it and forget it proposition, and as a bonus it is a piece of engineering that looks way cool:)

Cheers-Colin Firth-Ontario Canada

810gpz750 wrote:

if it doesnt really help as far as wear and performance does it at least cut down that damn "chainsaw"(lol) noise?:blink:

Mine don't make that noise. Are you sure it's not your primary chain? They have no adjuster and can saw through things if they get really slack.

cottoncandyninja wrote:

sometimes the stock cam adjuster can malfunction causing slack in the cam chain messing up your timing and making things ugly bad. ugly betty bad.

take a stock tensioner housing with the guts out of it,file the end oposite of motor flat with a file then drill a hole in it and tap it for a bolt and a nut.once you reassemble it and install back on motor with tension on chain run a nut all the way up the bolt and install the bolt in the hole you tapped till it meets plunger,then run the nut against the face of tensioner where you filed it flat as a jam nut to hold in place.thats how we used to do it before all the fancy aftermarket stuff came out;)