Valve clearance to tight

Hi,

Just need a little information.

I'm going to adjust the valve clearance on my 84 Z1100R. I'm not there yet but the shims seem to be under the bucket. (95% sure)

I've torque all cam bolts last night and it appear to be 4 valve that are too tight. 2 of them that I can't even have the feeler fit in and the 2 others that are at 0.0015. / arer on the Exhaust side and 1 the intake.

Valve clearance spec should be between 0.003 and 0.007.


I've check the compression before doing that and it was all similar for each cylinder. 135, 133, 135, 137.

Since many of the valve clearance are short. Does this indicate that I need a valve seat job or just normal wear and I'll just install tinner shims.

Tks for your help,
Joce

I would just adjust the valves and see
how the bike runs.If the bike runs good
and doesn't smoke,everything is probably
within spec.

Tks for the advise.

I was just wondering since many valves have the same problem (too tight)

tjettim wrote:

I would just adjust the valves and see
how the bike runs.If the bike runs good
and doesn't smoke,everything is probably
within spec.

I like this advice as well.your compression #'s dont indicate a leak and if they are the same after a reshim then u know they were not leaking.have fun.I and doing the same right now.I dont think there is a worse job on these bikes thean trying to get the cam chain on properly.Be carfull when pulling down the cams with the bolts so u dont strip the bolts(easy to strip).try to do each side evenlt.watch the high side of the cam and push down on it to releave stress as u tighten.good luck

:S Bad news I think.

So I took off the cam last night and the valve lifter. Everything was fine until I found that some O-ring parts were in the bottom of a valve lifter.................. This was on cylinder 3 and the exhaust side

I'm not sure where this come from but could it be a valve seal???

The engine wasn't smoking at all headers where heating correctly.

I've never been that far in an engine but could it be the valve seal?

This is maybe a stupid question but is there a way to change it without pulling the end?

We have changed some valve seals without pulling the
head but not on a KZ motor.It would involve fabricating
a spring compressor that mounted to the cam tower bolt
holes that still allowed access to the retainers.You
would need a small mill or maybe a welder and a drill
press.Carefully lower a small length of 3/16" diameter
soft rope into that cylinders sparkplug hole at BDC
with the cams out.With a foot or more left sticking
out gently by hand turn the motor over untill you
compress the rope against the valves.This should happen
slightly before TDC,if not stuff in more rope and retry.
You will need a small bracket made to keep the crank
from turning.I have a steel plate that bolts to the
ignition cover holes with a socket welded to it that
keeps the crank from turning.My dad has made numerous
such devices over the years.Just make sure the valve
doesn't move as you compress the spring.

From your description, sounds like a valve seal is pooched. They are a neoprene-type of manufacture and eventually will wear. It is no big deal to change them on my 650 motor and should be the same on your 1100. They come in sets so if you are going to change one, change them all at the same time.

You will need to remove the head and get your hands on a valve spring compressor to remove the valve and get at the guide where the seal sits over.

There has been lots of discussion here on kzr on how some guys have rigged up devices to compress valve springs and pull valves while the head is still on the motor, but do it right and remove the head. This will also give you a chance to de-carbon the combustion chambers and ports and also do a bench shim of all valve clearances.

It might be a good idea to relap the valves at this time. This isn't a major project either if you get your hands on some lapping compound and a suction cup on a dowel.

If this is your first time doing this type of work, check the archives for info on these jobs and make sure that you keep all valves, shims, springs, keepers etc. from each cylinder together and clearly marked. You don't want to mix up the shims and valves from cylinder to cylinder or you will have to re-do the shimming again.

Cheers-Colin Firth-Ontario Canada

Thanks for all your advise.

I've find a local place for a valve job.

Will I was there, I've pull up the cylinder to check if everything was fine. Only changing the rear chain guide and rubber intake.

Just want to be sure I'm going right:
- Since everything is in spec, I just need to put a new base gasket. No honning since I'm using the same rings right?
- Also, I've order a comlete gasket kit from Z1entreprise. Those aftermarket gasket need to be install dry?

Thanks in advance for your help and feel free to give me any hints.

Joce

u will find that u need to put silcone(Permatex grey or black workks for me)on all of the case and cover gaskets.They will seep if u dont.head and base should be ok .my manual for a kz says to put silicone around the inner 4 block studs(dont know abut yours?).I hope u have a manual? dont forget to retoque the head after a few heat cycles(just loosen 1 bolt at a time and retorque.)
u shouldnt need to hone,but it wouldnt hurt to measure you piston to cyl clearance while your at it.

Post edited by: mark1122, at: 2007/08/17 10:25

Tks for the advise.

I've check, cylinder bore, cylinder to piston, rings gap and piston.

Everything is in spec but I have to admit that the cylinder bore is realy realy close to the limit.

Well then it's up to u .u can put it back together and enjoy it as is ,or go the extra cost and rebore and buy bigger piston.enjoy the project.if u need help let us know.