Torqueing protocol ?

I have a minor, slightly irritating oil leak at the cylinder base gasket just under the cam chain tensioner and was thinking of retorqueing the cylinder head nuts.
What's the best way to do this or is it even worth the bother ?
Should I loosen and torque to spec one nut at a time in the sequence shown in the manual or is there a better way to do this ?
Thanks guys

The recommended way is to torque the bolts in 3 or 4 stages following the recommended pattern. As an example, if the torque in 20 lbs., go in stages such as 5 10 15 20. Then I always go over them again at the 20 to be sure that as you tightened them in sequence it didn't relax the torque on the ones in the first part of the sequence.
But, are you sure it isn't just the cam chain tensioner leaking???
Ride safe.

JR,I wouldn't loosen them first...just retorque them,and yes...follow the sequence in the manual,Bud.

Hey JR. I would cheque the cam chain adjuster first but you have probably already done this.

Clean the motor with a pressure washer to get the old oil off. Get a small bottle of baby powder and put a light dusting around the base of the jugs. Fire up the bike and let it warm up good. Within a few minutes you will notice where the leak is coming from as the oil will leave an identifiable path through the baby powder.

Clean off the motor and retorque the head following the sequence in the manual.

Repeat the baby powder procedure to ensure you took care of the leak with the retorque on a warm engine. If this didn't do the job you might have to pull the head off and carefully lift the cylinders up an inch or two (not over the bottome rings) so you can get at the base gasket to put a thin bead of high temperature liquid gasket along the top and bottom of the base gasket.

Good luck and thanks again for the Stella Artois beer you brought in your visit a few weeks back.

Cheers-Colin

Thanks for the tips guys. I'll try a re torque at the weekend. I'll have to get a new torque wrench though. My old one which I've had since about 1980 only goes up to 3.4 kg-m and I need 4 for the nuts. The old one is probably out of whack by now anyway. Any suggestions for a good brand ?

Thanks for the tip Colin on just raising the barrels and using liquid gasket - yes it is the base gasket, not the tensioner - had'nt thought of that one.

Glad you enjoyed the Stella, I could'nt find any Moosehead !!:laugh: :laugh:

Post edited by: JR, at: 2007/08/07 23:10

JR wrote:

...have to get a new torque wrench.... Any suggestions for a good brand?

The original genuine Black Forest brand torque wrench has no equal, being scientifically calibrated to the precise German Virgin Standard, which in your particular application should be set to Guttentite (as opposed to the more commonly recognized Canadian method of turn it until it strips, then back off 1/2 turn).

Hope this helps.

Patton wrote:

JR wrote:

...have to get a new torque wrench.... Any suggestions for a good brand?

The original genuine Black Forest brand torque wrench has no equal, being scientifically calibrated to the precise German Virgin Standard, which in your particular application should be set to Guttentite (as opposed to the more commonly recognized Canadian method of turn it until it strips, then back off 1/2 turn).

Hope this helps.

:laugh: :laugh: :lol: :silly: :lol:

I suggest you also look at the oil pipe orings. These things get hard and can leak and are in the same area as the cam chain tensioner which can also leak.