How Hot?

I've got a 77 Kz650 that is running hot? I don't know yet how hot, but I'm going to check it out with a Pyrometer that I've got. Where should the reading be taken? I imagine on the head somewhere?

I don't know how to get it to cool down? I set the valve clearance. Could the oil pump be going out on this? I don't have a oil cooler yet but I'm going to add one soon. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks, Wes

I thought I'd add a little more. It takes 20 minute's or so for it to start to get hot. It slowly starts to loose power.

Can I add a oil pressure gauge anywhere on here and how much pressure should it have? Thanks, Wes

Wes,I'm not sure what You're talking about Bud,but a pyrometer is a probe used for reading the exhaust temperature,and You would have to drill a hole in one of the pipes(or all of them,and use 4 pyros)and install the probe into the pipe,just before it starts the downward bend,directly off of the head.
I have them installed on My snowmobile,and they're used for jetting purposes.You jet where You think You want to be,and the pyro will give You an exhaust temp reading,and from there You jet leaner or richer depending on the reading You get.
Aluminum melts down at 1100 degrees F,so You would use the pyrometer to get You close to that,to get the leanest,most effective jetting(for a snowmobile).

I have an optical pyrometer good to 500 degrees. I got it at radio shack. You just point it at the object and it will tell you the temp;)

If you are running NGKB7ES plugs try the 8s.
You might want to richen the carbs up a bit.
What speeds does the bike seem to run hot at?

Powder Keg wrote:

I have an optical pyrometer good to 500 degrees. I got it at radio shack. You just point it at the object and it will tell you the temp;)

I'm like Sandy, I believed that Pyrometer referred to exhaust gas measurement as well, but I looked it up on wikipedia and you are quite correct in calling what I refer to as an infrared thermometer a pyrometer.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pyrometer

I have no idea what would be an acceptable temp at any specific external location though.

So, Is what I'm describing a sign of overheating? What are the signs short of melted aluminum? I checked my timing for the first time since I've had my bike tonight. I had to move the points plate a bit over a quarter of an inch. It was retarded that much.

Powder Keg wrote:

I have an optical pyrometer good to 500 degrees. I got it at radio shack. You just point it at the object and it will tell you the temp;)

I love those, use one in my kitchen (ala Alton Brown) but while 500 degrees is fine for a pan of hot oil....do you think it'll be enough for your engine? I'm not sure...

Check your jetting. Do you have pipes and pods? If so you need to rejet. Take a look at the plugs-white too lean, tan good, black too rich.

220~ 260 on exaust pipe 1-2 inches from head near the downward bend. it's good to have similar readings dosen't need to be exact but if there is a 100 degree difference adjust the carb idle mixture screws.

if you are concerned about melting aluminium there will be little bits of grey balled material on the plug electrode.

get a optical or look into the spark plug hole with the piston at T.D.C you will definately see the detonation scars if there are any


ignition timing is the tuning detail that will raise the temp most

don't forget these bikes will get oil temps of near 300 F. in the summer

I like to run ngk b9es in the summer it is 2 steps colder that what is recomended

300 degrees is fine for a first fry but if you want those french fries to be nice a crispy, do a second fry at around 450.

Thanks Trippivot, Thats about what I thought. I timed the bike last night and it ran great this morning. started acting up after work though. I think it is a plugged fuel filter. I put on this new tank and I added a new glass filter. There was some red stuff on the screen? I'll clean it tonight. The temp was only 260 degrees near the spark plugs. That was the hottest place I could find.