Stiff clutch lever

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04 Aug 2007 18:55 #161762 by matts750
Stiff clutch lever was created by matts750
I live in Chicago, so there's a LOT of stop and go driving and working the clutch when riding. The clutch on my 80 KZ750 feels tight (i.e. it's hard to pull back) and you easily can wind up with a sore arm and hand riding in traffic. I adjusted the clutch per the Clymer service manual instructions. Although it was a smart move and needed to be done, it did nothing to loosen the clutch to prevent hand and arm cramps.

Has anybody discovered a way to make the clutch cable feel less tight when you're riding in a lot in traffic? If you've done something that worked, please let me know.

A friend who rides a Harley had a stiff clutch and when he had it serviced recently, the mechanic took care of it for him without even asking. Of course, my friend never asked the mechanic what exactly he did either, but it's 100% better now, whatever he did.

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04 Aug 2007 19:04 #161764 by hwms
Replied by hwms on topic Stiff clutch lever
Pull the drive sprocket cover. Clean the chain lube out of the clutch release mechanism. Lube clutch cable.


I just saw that this is a 750 so above may not apply.

Post edited by: hwms, at: 2007/08/04 22:07

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04 Aug 2007 19:33 #161767 by rstnick
Replied by rstnick on topic Stiff clutch lever
My 650's clutch was the same for two seasons, and I was determined to make it easier over the last Winter. I have an aftermarket Cir Cycle clutch, and swapped the springs back to stock.

While the sprocket cover was off, I pulled the clutch lever in and it felt nice and easy. During this spring swap, I removed the cable completely. With the cable removed, I relized it was actually gumbed up and hard to slide in it's sheith. I put on a new cable and my pull is now much easier.

I had lubed my old cable over the years and thought it was fine. But once it was removed from the bike, it was obvious it was to gumbed up and tight. It felt fine with the sproket cover removed because the Clutch Actuating Mechanism was pulling it back.

Take yours off and test it for resistance/smoothness.

Rob
CANADA

Need a key for your Kawasaki? PM me

1978 KZ650 C2, 130K kms, Delkevic ex, EI, CVK32, PMC easy clutch, ATK fork brace, steering damper, braced swingarm, 18" Z1R front wheel.
2000 ZRX1100
2011 Ninja 250R
2005 z750s

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04 Aug 2007 20:29 #161781 by bill_wilcox100
Replied by bill_wilcox100 on topic Stiff clutch lever
ditto, like rstnick said.

I had the same symptom and only swapping out the clutch cable made a difference.

Best of success.

1977 KZ650-B1 (Stock)
Upgrades:
- Dyna S Electronic Ignition (DS2-2)
- Dyna 3 Ohm Coils (DC1-1)
- Coil Repowering Mod
- Progressive Springs Front & Rear
- Saddlemen Seat Cover
- New Metallic Red Re-Paint & Repro Badges.
Montreal, Canada

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05 Aug 2007 10:39 #161864 by coppertales
Replied by coppertales on topic Stiff clutch lever
You need a new clutch cable.........chris3

1982 KZ1100 A2
1982 1100 SPECTRE
1982 1100 SPECTRE

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05 Aug 2007 12:01 #161887 by matts750
Replied by matts750 on topic Stiff clutch lever
Perfect. I'll give this a try. Thanks.

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05 Aug 2007 16:04 #161919 by tjettim
Replied by tjettim on topic Stiff clutch lever
When you lube the cables try automatic
transmission fluid.It will gum up much
less over time.Anything that comes out
of an airesol can will gum up.

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06 Aug 2007 14:43 #162091 by KaZooCruiser
Replied by KaZooCruiser on topic Stiff clutch lever
matts750 wrote:

. . .The clutch on my 80 KZ750 feels tight . . . I adjusted the clutch per the Clymer service manual instructions. . . it did nothing to loosen the clutch to prevent hand and arm cramps.

Has anybody discovered a way to make the clutch cable feel less tight when you're riding in a lot in traffic? If you've done something that worked, please let me know. . .


There was a discussion about this recently:

stiff lever pull

It looks like you have the same caged ball assembly as the 650's discussed in the thread there, from this picture:

parts schematic

Once you take the cable off, you can test and lube it. But I found in my bike, that that #13, #14, #15, and #18 parts were oxidized, gummy and without lubrication.

Clymer's probably doesn't give any information about the subassembly. But my factory service manual did. It is a maintenance item. There are 11 of the little balls, and it does make a difference when they are clean and lubricated properly.

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  • riverroad
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  • 1980 1000LTD B4
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07 Aug 2007 07:06 #162221 by riverroad
Replied by riverroad on topic Stiff clutch lever
Short of buying a new cable, you can remove it and soak it in some kerosene along with the clutch mechanism. Work the mechanism and cable back and forth and blow it out with air and relube it all. I used spray lithium grease on mine last year and it's still nice and loose.
For my throttle cables I just dumped penetrating oil down the tubes and worked the throttle a bunch of times, then followed up with 30 weight oil. Penetrating oil cuts right through the gunk. I like Kroil brand.
OTOH, if you do all of that and the cable is still stiff, then you might have some frayed cable inside, and you'll have to replace it.

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07 Aug 2007 12:48 #162261 by trippivot
Replied by trippivot on topic Stiff clutch lever
a cable lubing tool is a good thing to have in the tool box . I use bel-rey 6 in 1 oil. don't try chain lube!

one other idea...
is the cable routed properly? if there is a tight curve or bend from installing a lower set of handlebars, you may consider a shorter cable or different routing from bars to engine. tight lever is a common problem around here due to modification

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08 Aug 2007 06:15 #162467 by wiredgeorge
Replied by wiredgeorge on topic Stiff clutch lever
The pull of the clutch is determined by the stiffness of the clutch springs. MOST aftermarket replacement springs are heavier gauge steel than are the originals for some reason... in other words, heavy duty and make the clutch pull harder.

wiredgeorge Motorcycle Carburetors
Mico TX
www.wgcarbs.com
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