Cylinder and Head Assembly Tips, Please!

OK, I think I'm finally ready to start final assembly on my engine. I am installing a freshly rebuilt/ported head and a nice new MTC 1261 piston kit. The entire bottom end is together and the engine is in the frame.

Can you offer some tips for assembly? I'm mainly concerned about oil leaks on the base and head gaskets. Should they go on dry? I think I need additional silicone in specific areas, any thoughts? (like around bottom of sleeves, to fill old o-ring groove from stock 2 pc head gasket, around studs at case??) I have a great manual but it will be different because of the aftermarket parts. I haven't done one in about 15 years and my Kaw advice guy has moved away.

Any help would be appreciated. I'm a little unsure since it's been so long Thanks!

Well, first of all..That wrist pin is WAY to long..
You'll never get the cylinders on with that.

A thin base gasket should stop leaks there.

I put my cylinder head gaskets on dry. Be SURE
to NOT over tighten them.


Bob

Bob_79KZ wrote:

Well, first of all..That wrist pin is WAY to long..
You'll never get the cylinders on with that.

A thin base gasket should stop leaks there.

I put my cylinder head gaskets on dry. Be SURE
to NOT over tighten them.


Bob

O.K. That one was probably the funniest comment I have ever seen on Kzr. Very clever Bob:)

Make sure the surfaces are spic and span clean. I put down a little thin bead of high temperature liquid gasket from a tube underneath the base gasket. It has worked great for me without any leaks.

Cheers-Colin Firth-Ontario Canada

If you clean the gasket surface of any remnants from old gaskets, they will never leak putting on dry. So you have a choice, work to clean-put on dry=no leaks. No clean or crap clean-put on dry=leaks. No clean or crap clean with sealer=no leaks if you're lucky. The best way is to clean every bit of old gasket crap off and assemble dry. It will never leak. I suppose cleaning every bit of crap+ adding sealer would even be better, but I never do sealer EVER, and have had zero leaks in 30 years.

I rebuild a few engines every year... I have found that the case covers on some will leak, no matter how clean. I think it is that the mating surface is a bit swirled and not real smooth. When I see this swirl pattern in the gasket mating surface for the case covers, I use NAPA brand gasket sealer. It is a purple goo that you paint onto (or spray if you aren't afraid of a little mess) the gasket and mating surfaces. It is a bit tacky and you can set the gasket on it and it will stay and also seals very well. I use this goop on the thin base gasket which I install prior to setting the block in place to hold it... Also, make sure all the locating pins/dowels are in the right place. Nothing more frustrating than having locating pins in the block and also in the engine cases after finally getting the block down over the pistons. Last, Clymers shows a good trick for making some holders for the cylinders. If you hold two of the cylinders, say 2 & 3 while fitting the block it makes it much easier with less potential for ruining a ring. The holders are essentially big wood clothes pins. Also, have a 6mm insert kit on hand for the inevitable stripped cam cap thread or case bolt thread.

Another question regarding this assembly:

The instructions for the new MTC piston kit are vague, at best. They explain how to install each ring, but don't show/explain which ring is which. How do I tell the "Top" ring from the "2nd" ring? I think the oil ring and the flat rings that go with it are easy to tell. Of the 2 remaining rings, one is copper in color and one is black. Thanks

I just noticed that the instructions say, "Second ring is identified by a letter on the face of the ring. Make sure this letter is facing UP when installing ring on piston.". Problem is, both rings have a letter.:S

Ape Jay Maybe??

Post edited by: 79MKII, at: 2007/07/28 17:08

Top ring has chamfered outer edges and second ring has notched upper inner edge.

hwms wrote:

Top ring has chamfered outer edges and second ring has notched upper inner edge.

That would be true for the stock rings, but the MTC rings are nearly the same except for color/material. One is a little wider, but that's the only difference I can see.

Sorry about that. Careful perusaul of MTC Engineering data failed to discover any info about different colors, etc. Strange. Would be interesed in answer.

OK, I finally remembered that I had the old set of MTC pistons to look at (1229cc). The top ring is silver and the bottom ring is black. After further investigation, I found the most compelling evidence yet...the black ring is thicker and will only fit in the lower groove on the piston!! :blush: Case solved!!

And for the next confusing step...

The KAW manual says to oil the rings and cylinders prior to installation. MTC does not. The quote is, "Very Important: DO NOT OIL RINGS! By not oiling rings, they will start sealing as soon as engine is started."

Could this be correct?? Install rings dry?
:blink:

They don't say to oil the cylinders either. I can't imagine installing the cylinders and rings dry. Anyone ever done this before??

I've done that with chromoly rings. installed two sets. first time I oiled the cylinders andhow, and always used oil the rings glazed the cylinders before the seated. second time dry no problem. but might just call up the co. to double check if you're worried.