Cleaning Engine Corrosion

I'm looking at making a purchase of a bike thats been sitting about 6 years. It looks like there is a considerable amount of corrosion, grey color stuff. I haven't decided whether to part or restore. Its an 87 KZ 1000p. I could use some parts for my original 1000p and sell off the rest, or make a bobber thingy majig or whatever. No gauges so mileage maybe a tough to figure, says he has paper work. Anyway, question is, can you bring back an engine from grey corrosion, and if so, with what? Thanks all. I'll let you know how it goes...

no first hand experience, but i got this:

www.team.net/sol/tech/clean_al.html

from here:

www.webbikeworld.com/Motorcycle-technical-articles/articles.htm

looks like walnut shells #6 are the way to go.

(if it's not aluminum corrosion, but steel/chrome rust i highly recommend this:

www.evapo-rust.com

the rust just dissolves, if submerged in the product for a few hours.)

Post edited by: duncan, at: 2006/01/02 17:24

In my experience in bringing my old "77650 back from the dead it comes down to what look you are chasing. If you want the engine cases to be polished to the exent you can see yourself (I don't know how ugly you are:) then it will take a lot of elbow grease and polishing.

I started by removing the pooched, oxidised cases and wet sanded them starting with #180 grit paper then moving to 220, 400, 600 then finally the fine1000 grit. Wipe the cases with a dry cloth to get as much of the dirt off of them then apply Auto-Sol with your fingers rubbing the stuff in really good. You will see the Auto-Sol cream turn from white to gray then black as it pulls the dirt out of the tiny pores. In the U.S. you might try using Mother's Billet Polish if Auto-Sol is not available. I used both but found the Auto-Sol to be better.

The final step is a soft buffing pad/wheel on a variable speed drill which will give cases a look that is just one step short of looking chromed.

For the engine cooling fins I had them bead blasted which gave a really cool and clean rough casting finish. For the bottom engine cases I followed the wet sanding routine but they didn't get as much attention as the removable cases since they were somewhat difficult to access and were less visible.

The whole job took me about 30-40 hours including the car tops and bottomes, valve cover and assorted engine parts and it was worth the time and they are fairly easy to keep shiny.

Or you can always just scuff the motor and paint it, but this is a process that might have to be repeated within a few years.

Cheers-Coin Firth-Ontario Canada

Post edited by: reborn650, at: 2006/01/02 18:13

if you dont want tear apart the engine try some aluminum wheel cleaner and some hi pressure water that should take care of a lot of the white stuff,from there its a matter of polishing depending on how shiny you want the rest of the parts to be

Not to sure on wat polishing techniques to use maybe bead blast the motor ha if u can get the bike cheap enough id go ahead an bob it customize it people get a kick out of a customized police bike do something downright different to the bike thats the the direction
id go and post a pic if u do

I sold a 77 KZ1000 to a buddy fairly cheap because it was oxidized REALY bad. The day after he got it, it was polished more than a showroom bike. He said he only used Mothers aluminum polish and steel wool. I was happy for him, but not for me! He even got between all of the cooling fins and the oil pan. Looked great.

kzrider.com/component/option,com_joomlab...id,6/id,15759/#15759

I fixed your link

Post edited by: steell, at: 2006/01/03 01:20

If the fairing is in decent shape, I'd be interested in it, if you have it. Let me know!

I've read incredable things about Autosol. I haven't found it around here but I haven't looked real hard. It is what I'd use to polish the show parts.

Elbo grease my son!:lol:

life's too short for polishing and it's not corrosion, it's patina!

Duck wrote:

life's too short for polishing and it's not corrosion, it's patina!

Duck, you've been watching too many 'Antiques Roadshows':lol:

Autosol, elbow grease, non-metallic scrub pad (for engine cases) and clean rags. If you put the parts in the oven to heat up to about 150'F (shhhh don't tell the missus)the Autosol works real good on engine covers. Aluminium coil cleaner (refrigderation coil) works real good but should be thoroughly washed off. It will stain polished areas. Autosol for smooth polished covers and commercial aluminium cleaner for cases. Roomed with 4 other guys 20 od years ago. One winter had all 5 of us in living room during the winter passing Autosol around as we each polished our engine covers while watching the greatest game played (hockey).