timing chain noise

Just rebuilt the top end of my C1 1977 kz 650. It runs beautifully except for the excessive timing chain noise. I loosened the bolt on the tensioner to release the push rod then retightened. Not sure if it could be the upper chain guide between the cams. Manual doesn't show good pic. Is there four rubber dampners and four metal plates? Thanks for any help.-alex

Did you adjust your cam chain with the crank in the proper location? (On the corner just past the 2-3 timing mark if I'm remembering correctly). I ask because when I first put mine together I didn't have the crank on the correct position and it didn't tighten correctly and I had the exact same noise as you're having now.

No I did not. The clymer manual made no mention of that. The chain seems too tight so maybe that is the cause. I will check. Thanks

I just double checked my clymer's (which is circa 1979 so maybe they changed something in more recent editions and left out something, weirder things have happened). and the steps they list are:

1. Disconnect the negative lead
2. Remove the scres securing the ignition cover and remove it.
3.. Turn the crankshaft clockwise 2 complete rotations. Use the 17mm bolt on the end of the crankshaft. this takes up the slack in the cam chain. Continue to turn until the corner of the timing advancer near the No. 2 and 2 "T" mark aligns with the timing mark on the crankcase.
4. Loosen the locknut and adjuster bolt. the tensioner will automatically and correctly adjust to the right tension.
5. Tighten the adjuster bolt to 5-6.5 ft.-lb. Tighten the locknut.
6. Install the ignition cover and battery negative lead.

Hope that helps you get rid of the noise!

A Clymer manual is a poor substitute for an official Kawasaki one.I made the same mistake buying one for a GS1000 Suzuki.Your tensioner will have rubber under it,over it,then topped with the metal plates.Any other
combination is wrong.Did you remove the tensioner from the back of the cylinder and see how much travel was used up when you did the topend? This is a good indicator for chain and guide wear.A Kawasaki manual will give you all the acceptable wear data.

Thanks anarki, that did the trick!

The manual tensioner has a soft aluminum body... it can score on the inside from contact with the plunger. The rear of the plunger has an edge that cuts into the tensioner body and this can cause the plugner to hang, when you release the bolt that holds it. Make sure you hear it come out when you release it to tension the chain... if you are not sure, just pull it out and examine it to see if the plunger releases. This problem won't be in any manual.