Help with timing and shims

I have a 77 kz 650 with a new valve job done by APE racing. Now I am anxious to get it back together. Just wondering if the top dead center mark could be off. When I rotate the engine I can feel when cylinders 1 and 4 come to TDC but the mark is off an by a 1/4 inch. Also does anyone know where to get a shim kit. Just got my head back from APE racing and need to reshim. Thanks-Alex

Hi,

Can't help you with the timing but new shims can be had from z1enterprises. I believe they have a kit as well as individual shims. Here's a link to their site. kzrider.com/component/option,com_weblink...view/catid,224/id,4/

What are you doing ?
The head needs to be setup on the bench before you ever bolt it back on the engine (shimmed) KZ650

When you do it right ,there is NO messing around with it ,it's right when you put it together.

Your 1/4 marks ?
Are you sure you are NOT bending your new valve job up ?

What you are saying is that the T mark for 1 & 4 on your mechanical timing advance is 1/4" off the case mark when 1 and 4 are at TDC (on top)? There is NO WAY that a cylinder head assembly could make a difference... the difference comes in the mechanical timing of the cam chain and cam sprockets. In other words, you would need to be one or more teeth OFF where you should be to get this effect. To SET your cam timing, you should start with 1&4 at TDC and the timing mark lined up. Then install intake cam, measure cam chain links and then orient your exhaust cam. The main problem I run into when doing this procedure is not getting the chain pulled out all the from the CRANKSHAFT cam chain sprocket. You often have to jiggle and shake the chain to get it pulled out all the way as it wants to bunch down around the crank sprocket. I hope you haven't bent the valves...

Just read the post and ran out and took head off to check valves. Everything seems to be fine...thank god. So to bench shim i remove my valve springs and do one valve at a time? Thanks for the help, my timing is fine, just to need to get some shims from Z1 and hopefully be riding soon.

I am not sure what "bench shim" really means in the context that someone else uses the term. The Kaw KZ1000 Factory Service Manual has you measure the VALVE LENGTH and select an appropriate shim. This helps you get in the ball park, so that when you start the engine for the first time with the engine assembled, you won't hurt any of the valves. I find this method works decently but I end up changing a shim or two up or down a size after setting them up using length, prior to assembly. I think I posted the chart in the FILE BASE at some time in the past. I don't think this chart is in the 73-80 900/1000 Clymers.

I think they mean bench shim as install the cams with the head off and adj the valves , when you install the head you should not have to reshim the valves