Broken CamShaft Nipple?

Use a carbide drill bit. It will drill through the hardened steel pin. Use an electric drill that has variable speed and drill slowly.

The good the bad, and the ugly! The good, got the hole drilled, put in pin, put most of bike back together. . . drum roll. . .she started beautifully first try. . .the bad, idle is erratic, after engine warmed up good, choke can be taken off engine jumps to about 3k rpm a slight twist of the throttle sputters her down to about 1k or kills her. Couldn't get out of first gear. . .couldn't get above maybe 5mph with full throttle and she sputters all the way.
A little quick history for those of you who haven't seen me post here before. . .this thing was on it's way to the junk yard about a year and a half ago. . . I decided I wanted to learn to ride, figured it would be important to know how to work on one as well. . .being a poor military guy (at the time) figured she was free, and I worked on jets for the air force so I was somewhat mechanically inclined. . .It's been a long year and a half, rode her twice including last night. . .anyways enough reminiscing. . .
I'm thinking carberator adj. possibly timing . .? valve clearance? some other potential contributory things . . .where the left exhaust exits the engine it appears a small amount of oil leaks out (this could be coming from somewhere else but to the best I've been able to tell it's coming from here) I also need to replace the seal around the "alternator cover" (forgive me for a possible wrong term). finally, need to get new clamps for the mating surfaces for both ends of the carb. they do have a pretty good seal as it is. I plan on getting most of this done within the next few days. . .
FINALLY THE UGLY! I've been exploring this problem for awhile, this isn't new but is the first time i've asked for help on it. . .there's this rattelling noise that seems to be coming from inside the right exhaust pipe aprox maybe 3-4 inches from the end. . .almost sounds as if there's a nut or bolt in there rattelling about. . . it is rather loud . . it can be heard over the engine at idle. . . it does seem rythmetic meaning as the engine changes so does the frequency and pattern of the noise. . . any ideas??
Thanks for all your help!! BTW the metal carbide bit, and about 4 diamond dremel bits did the trick.

That's probably the baffle in the muffler rattling.

If you have a service or shop manual, start going through the basic tune up steps in the order they are suggested. It is often counter-productive to perform tune up steps out of order. For instance, if you sync the carbs without adjusting the valves, you will only have to redo the synchronization.

Clean the mechanical timing advance and lube it with dielectic grease in addition to the tune up. You may want also replace the carb holders as I am sure they are in need of replacement if you have not already done so. Don't try to repair and keep in mind that the rubber gets dried out and stiff and they won't seal well.

I broke mine once. Drilled it out successfully and got the Kawasaki Genuine Parts replacement for about $2.00. It's not a roll pin either, it's a hardened solid pin if I recall.

I only looked in this thread cause a the word "nipple". [/ashamed]

:laugh: :woohoo: I went through all the tune up steps to no avail. . I got to thinking about the air filter. . .It didn't have one at all when I first got it, I put this universal air filter foam padding type material in there. . . I put wayyyy too much. . took it out all together and I had no low rpm problems. . . managed to put one piece back. . .not in the box but just to the outside. . .of the two holes where it sucks the air through anyways. . and it runs like a champ!!! I spent the last three hours. . . yes 3am till 6am riding it! got through all of the gears everything was perfect!! There are still a few minor concerns I'd like to get fixed that i sorta just rigged here in the last few days in an effort to get her on the road. . .the biggest issue is where the exhaust pipe comes out of the engine there's two screws that have nuts on the end of them that press a piece of metal down on the exhaust pipe to sorta sandwich it on. . . I broke one of those screws. . . currently a little cauking gasket maker provides a good seal needless to say this is a temp. fix. . . not sure about how i'm going to get this screw out of there. . . if it's even a possibility. . . or if anyone out there has any good more permanent fixes for this??? Finally the ratteling exhaust that someone suggested was a loose baffle. . . how do i tighten up the baffle or is this even possible. . . ?? is there anything I can do to make this noise less? or more tolerable? As usual any help or input would be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks a million I can't even begin to describe how fantastic it felt to get this thing on the open road and letting her have it!!
Thanks again!

Suggest you edit your profile and put your bike year/model and your location in a signature. If someone is close-by, they might be able to lend a hand.

As far as the broken bit, it is called a stud. This happens regularly because studs get hot and cool and this causes them to get fairly brittle. How you remove a broken stud depends on how much of it is left. If there is enough material, you can use a stud remover... this thing looks a bit like a socket. They come in different sizes and I have forgotten what type bike you are talking about. The studs will be either 6mm or 8mm depending on model. You just put the stud remover on the stub and turn it out. If you don't have much stud, you can try vise grips and turn out the stub. If the stud is broken off flush, it will need to be drilled. If you try and remove it, be careful about using an easy-out. These things tend to break and are much harder to drill out than the stud itself. There is another type of remover that is SQUARE that is much stronger and this would be a better choice. If the stud doesn't turn, and it may not, then you will just need to drill and re-tap. Remember that a 6mm stud is a bit smaller than a 1/4" drill bit so you will have to use a bit smaller than 1/4" to drill and still have material to tap to reinstall a 6mm stud. If you try and turn the stud out, you may want to hit the area with a torch as that will also allow the stud to break loose. The steel stud tends to gall in the aluminum cases. You can allow hit the thing with PB Blaster and let it sit and then reheat... that works decently to allow the stud to break free.