Z1 exhaust gasket

Just wondering if anyone has personal experience with anything other than the standard copper crush gaskets??
I have noticed another pipe starting that much loved TICK TICK TICK on my Z1.
I see Jeff @ Z1 Enterprises ( shameless plug ) and a few other unnamed sources have other gaskets available for my Z1 and Kz's.
www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=2675
OR the standard one www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=196
I haven't had a chance to call Jeff and ask his .02 cents worth on this issue.
I will be using them on a 900 with LTD exhaust and a project 900 with a Kerker.
Anyone??
Pat
PS I did do a search and could not find a answer.

Post edited by: patmann, at: 2007/05/22 15:12

Pat - The alternative gaskets Z1E sells are there because many of the aftermarket exhausts have more shallow flanges than the OEM head pipes. The OEM gaskets just won't crush as they should in some cases and Jeff has done some research to find the thicker gaskets he carries. I am sure he has had enough positive feedback on their use where he doesn't have any qualms about carrying them.

George,
I understood that much from Jeff's site info ( now how's that go ?? in my best Wiredgeorge voice BAAAWWWAAAHHHA ?? )
Just wondering if anyone here had used them on a "stock" system.. I'm sure they will be used on the project bike.

By the way I just sent another person your way for some KZ carb work. He stopped to see if my bike was for sale since it was sitting in front of my weekend job's showroom ( Ski-Doo's and Simplicity ).But I did warn him EVERYBODY wants them done @ this time of the year so expect some wait:whistle: But a worth while wait it is.

Just in case anyone wants to know..
I called Jeff, the thicker "reuseable" gaskets should work fine for my stock system. But are really designed for non stock systems , Kerker, V&H ect.
When I say reusable, I mean more than once as long as they aren't cranked down to the point of stripping the stud. Jeff figures I should be able to reuse them at least twice, m-a-y-b-e more. That should be a plus, at least in my book;)
I ordered four of these and four stock ones , just in case:dry:
I will let you know how they pan out, even if you don't care.
Pat

Post edited by: patmann, at: 2007/05/23 16:05

Got both sets of gaskets from Jeff. I put the "new and improved " ones on the pipe that was leaking. Seems to work great. No problems. I guess it will be one of those things that you just have to wait and see on. So when, not IF, I have to pull those pipes I'll see if I can reuse them.
pat

I used that before to get me through until my gaskets arrived. It did work sort of. I used a old copper crush gasket and put some of the rtv behind it then installed the old gasket. A female dog that had puppies to clean it all out when I got my new ones:pinch:
That's the reason I order four of the "reuseable" ones and four standard gaskets.
But thanks anyway , pat

patmann wrote:

I used that before to get me through until my gaskets arrived. It did work sort of. I used a old copper crush gasket and put some of the rtv behind it then installed the old gasket. A female dog that had puppies to clean it all out when I got my new ones:pinch: That's the reason I order four of the "reuseable" ones and four standard gaskets. But thanks anyway, pat

Had interpreted the original post as having TICK TICK TICK when using new standard copper crush gaskets.

The hi-temp permatex isn't intended for application in lieu of a gasket, or to permit using an old flattened gasket, or application in a grimey carbon infested environment.

The trick is to first carefully clean the engine exhaust recess area (q-tips and acetone works for me) and use very little Permatex on a new copper crush gasket. Put the new gasket into place and the thin coating of Permatex (in a clean recess) holds it handily in place. Let it set up a little. Okay to put another thin coating on outside surface of new crush gasket.

Low and behold, thanks to the crush gaskets remaining in place, it's now possible to easily manipulate the split collars and clamps into position (and without masking tape on the split collars), and without gaskets, collar halves and clamps all escaping and falling all over the place.

The Permatex secures the seal between gasket and engine and between gasket and header flange.

So easy. So quick. No TICK TICK TICK. :woohoo:

Post edited by: Patton, at: 2007/06/08 18:27

rubber bands work better than masking tape;)

wireman wrote:

rubber bands work better than masking tape;)

And endorsed by Lt. Col. Kilgore