Valve Work

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19 May 2007 06:23 #141446 by KZSteelers
Valve Work was created by KZSteelers
I have a 1980 KZ650 LTD. I recently had some trouble getting the bike to run. When I could get it to run, it sounded horrible, and you could smell gasoline from the exhaust.

So the other night I pull the valve covers and the spark plugs. I do a compression check on the bike. My bike has shit for compression. I used compressed air to fill up the cylinder and see if I could find where the leak was, and just why I have no compression. Its my valves. With both valves closed, there seems to be no resistance for the compressed air going back into the carb and airbox.

So I need a valve job. Where can I get the valves? Any advise or helpful hints for this procedure?

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19 May 2007 06:31 #141447 by kzrider
Replied by kzrider on topic Valve Work
If you need new valves, you can usually pick the up at ebay. Here are some, but make sure they are correct for your bike.
Intake
Exhaust

You'll probably need to do more than replacing the valves, but I'm not really the right guy to answer that.

1976 Z750 B1
1980 Z1000 MkII A4

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19 May 2007 06:58 #141451 by Patton
Replied by Patton on topic Valve Work
KZSteelers wrote:

...have no compression...So I need a valve job....


Have cam gap clearances been checked and adjusted? Lack of sufficient clearance (too tight) would cause the symtoms. :)

1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD

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19 May 2007 07:44 #141456 by KZSteelers
Replied by KZSteelers on topic Valve Work
Thanks for the advise.

Does anybody know about after market valves for a KZ?

Also, what is a good shop manual to get for a 1980 KZ650LTD?

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  • RetroRiceRocketRider
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19 May 2007 08:53 #141472 by RetroRiceRocketRider
Replied by RetroRiceRocketRider on topic Valve Work
If you're just trying to get it running, I'd stay with Pattons suggestion of checking the valve clearances first.
No sense throwing money at something that isn't needed, right? ;)

No clue as to who, if anyone, offers aftermarket valves for the KZ650's anymore. The valves from the GPz750's can be made to fit though, and coupled with the GPz cams add noticeable power. With the GPz cams, you'd either need to block off the tach cable opening in the head and go with an electronic tach, or have the tach gear machined into the exhaust cam to be able to retain the original tach setup.

The FSM and Clymers tend to be the prefered manuals of choice - the FSM tends to be to "techy" for some, and the Clymers lists most things in simplier terms.
A good portion of us own both manuals, which can usually cover all bases on anything being needed to know.
To help get you started, there's a spec sheet in PDF form in the filebase that you can download for your bike:
1980 KZ650 E1 & F1 Specifications :)

Post edited by: RetroRiceRocketRider, at: 2007/05/19 11:53

Covina, So Calif!
78 KZ650-B2 = SOLD
84 ZN700 LTD = SOLD
84 ZX750 GPz = SOLD
89 GSX1100F Katana = SLEEPING :-/
20 VN1700 Vulcan Vaquero (the Blue Cowboy)
Looking for my next project KZ

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19 May 2007 10:21 #141494 by steell
Replied by steell on topic Valve Work
Without a doubt, the first step should be to check the valve clearances, that might be the only problem.

Unless you have loads of money to spend, and would rather be wrenching than riding :)

KD9JUR

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19 May 2007 11:25 #141518 by BSKZ650
Replied by BSKZ650 on topic Valve Work
check the lash as stated , also did you run the compression check with the throttle open?

77 kz650, owned for over 25 years
77 ltd1000, current rider
76 kz900, just waiting
73 z1,, gonna restore this one
piglet, leggero harley davidson
SR, Ride captian, S.E.Texas Patriot Guard Riders.. AKA KawaBob

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19 May 2007 20:20 #141621 by KZSteelers
Replied by KZSteelers on topic Valve Work
yeah, the throttle was wide open

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