Repacking clutch straight forward?

I have new steel/friction plates/springs etc for my slipping clutch (I use the proper dino oil, withought additives). I have done a search and gathered info. Changing out the plates/springs seems to be a fairly simple procedure on a KZ650, when I don't have to remove the basket. I do all my own work and haven't pooched anything major up yet. On a scale of one to 10 what would you rate it? I made a gasket for it, looks to me like a two-three hour job with cleaning and oil refill, adjusting etc. How was it for you ? I ALWAYS gather as much info as possible before going into new work. Maybe that's one reason why my 30 year old bike still runs well. Any help/comments/observation are appreciated. Thanks.

Never done one myself, but I remember reading that it waas a good idea to soak the friction plates in clean oil overnight before installing. I think it's cool you're doing all your own wrenching. I try to do as much of my own as I can. Sure makes riding more fun.

The worst part is removing the old gasket remnants. Other than that, it's extremely easy job. You really can't assemble the clutch wrong, just put on a fibre plate, then a metal, then a fibre ect, until all your plates are on then bolt the clutch back together and you're done. 2-3 hours should easily handle the job.

How many miles did you get out of the clutch pack you are pulling out?

KaZooCruiser wrote:

How many miles did you get out of the clutch pack you are pulling out?

You're not asking me, but I'll comment I went 162,000 miles on the original clutch on a KZ650 Clutch is like anything else, if you don't abuse it, it will last a good long time.

RonKZ650 wrote:

The worst part is removing the old gasket remnants. Other than that, it's extremely easy job. You really can't assemble the clutch wrong, just put on a fibre plate, then a metal, then a fibre ect, until all your plates are on then bolt the clutch back together and you're done. 2-3 hours should easily handle the job.

Very cool. Thanks for the straight scoop.

KaZooCruiser wrote:

How many miles did you get out of the clutch pack you are pulling out?

I've had the bike for aprox. 4 years now. It had about 32,000 KM's on it and now it reads a little over 50,000 KM's. I treat the bike well but lord knows what life it had before I got it. My front fender had a horizontal crease in the back were the frame cross member nailed it, from the old owner doing wheelies. The old horse is still reliable and treats me well, so I try to do my part.

That's right. Probably one of the simplest jobs for your bike you can do. Just watch how they come out and just reverse on re-installation. Just a note though...when I feel my clutch slipping some, I take it apart and sand the fiber and steel plates with sandpaper (nothing too rough, maybe about 400 grit) on both sides and re-install. Let the plates dry off some before sanding-wipe oil off if need be. An example of how it works...racing at the strip and the clutch was slipping bad enough the motor was revving but bike moving S-L-O-W-L-Y off the line. Took it back to the pits, leaned bike over and took clutch out and cleaned/sanded both fiber/steel plates and put it back together. Next run the bike yanked the front end about a foot off the ground. Night and day difference. Just because clutch is slipping doesn't mean you need to buy new parts. Next time you have problems, try sanding the plates...sometimes it works wonders when you just deglaze them.

Let me add something to the drag racers comments. Check how much friction material you have on the friction plates, I don't have my manual right now but they are supposed to be at a spec thickness on both sides. If they aren't change them. The metal plates also have a spec thickness, check those also. Check clutch basket for wear marks and the return spring lengths are checked to see if they have sunk with time. As for sanding the metal plates I do recommend a very flat surface to put the plate face down and sand on and those plates are also checked for coning so do that the same time on a flat surface. place the plat on surface and try to slip a guage leaf under it, if no go flip it ove and do the same thing around the circumference of the plate. IO can't think of anythingelse right now, but you did say you wanted the most info possible, now my brains are empty

ive always glassbeaded the steel plates before installng them;)

So you don't actually need to drain the engine of the oil before doing the clutch, if you can get it leaned over far enough?

That'd be nice.. Guess you'd need to top it up though.

It's probably just easier to do it with an empty oil pan..?

if all the oil is in thew stator cover/left side of the bike how can it get out?