Need Help With Starter Clutch Please

It seems like there's a speed bump on every step of this rebuild...here's the bump for today:

Should there be play in the starter clutch gear (#23) after the flywheel bolt has been torqued? The gear moves in and out about an 1/8" or more, it's really sloppy. I measured for clearance and selected the correct rubber damper (#26) but it is not even close to taking up the play. I believe I have all thrust washers and parts installed. Is this correct??
Thanks!

I was only able to find one thread that covered this issue, and it was for an 1100. The 1100 manual stated that if there's slop the rubber damper needs replaced. The damper I installed was used, so maybe it's undersized. I have another used one the next size up, so I guess I'll take it all apart and measure the 2 dampers that I have. Here goes another adventure trying to get that bleeping rotor off again!!

I feel like I'm talking to myself....I at least thought wireman would chime in!

Anyway, the rotor came off easily and I tried the other damper and it didn't help much. The difference in dampers (1 star to 2 stars) was only about .020".

Can anyone tell me if the rubber should be tight between the crank bearing and the starter clutch gear or is a little space normal?? :S :dry: :whistle:

Post edited by: 79MKII, at: 2007/05/06 00:39

I can't help with tech info on this one, but I'll provide moral support

Thanks Steell. At least a second person has posted in this thread! I feel much better now. :laugh:

It's been years since I replaced mine.Mine
did not have much play when done.There needs
to be a little play for this system to function
properly,but if overloose it will rattle.There
are probably clearance specs in the manual.

Dampers are provided in three thicknesses. Use the one that causes a light drag.
Be sure that the rotor is going on all the way. If not, it will allow some extra clearence.

OK, I think I have it figured out now. I installed the next size up damper (2 stars) and it had about .015" clearance. The measurement without the damper called for the smallest size (1 star) so I'm not sure why the medium size seems to work better. Maybe because all of the parts are used and there's sure to be some slop. Anyway, I also realized that the MKII calls for a higher torque on the rotor bolt, so that pushed the rotor further on the crank. There doesn't seem to be any clearance right now, but it spins freely with no noticeable drag. I wish the manual listed a clearance range but it doesn't. It only says to measure clearance without the damper, select the correct damper, and tighten everything down. I think it will be good the way it is now. Thanks for the tips and I'll update the post if anything goes wrong when I try to start it!:S :S

79MKII wrote:

OK, I think I have it figured out now. I installed the next size up damper (2 stars) and it had about .015" clearance. The measurement without the damper called for the smallest size (1 star) so I'm not sure why the medium size seems to work better. Maybe because all of the parts are used and there's sure to be some slop. Anyway, I also realized that the MKII calls for a higher torque on the rotor bolt, so that pushed the rotor further on the crank. There doesn't seem to be any clearance right now, but it spins freely with no noticeable drag. I wish the manual listed a clearance range but it doesn't. It only says to measure clearance without the damper, select the correct damper, and tighten everything down. I think it will be good the way it is now. Thanks for the tips and I'll update the post if anything goes wrong when I try to start it!:S :S

The clearence range is a "light drag".
If it spins freely it will most likely rattle agains the ider gear. The damper is there to keep the slack tightened up.