cam caps
- austin3119
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cam caps
04 May 2007 20:04
Hi guys I have a couple of leaks perpetuating out of my cam caps. Is it relatively easy to replace the caps and the cam cover gasket? It seems like it wouldn't be very difficult, but I hate when I get something apart and then I can't get it back together again. Ha.
Thanks.
Thanks.

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- reborn650
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Re: cam caps
04 May 2007 21:47
I am assuming you are talking about your rubber half moon cam cover seals. They are easy to fix if leaking since you are removing the cam cover to replace the gasket.
They should be somewhat malleable or slightly soft. If they are hard, replace them. If useable clean them really good to take off any residue and put a light coat of clear silicone caulking on the half moon base. Do this a little before putting on the new valve cover gasket and valve cover. You want the silicone to be tacky.
When putting on a new valve cover gasket make sure the surfaces are scraped clean of any old gasket material. I thin film of grease or clean motor oil on both sides of the gasket will help keep it in place and also aid in sealing. Be careful to line up the valve cover so the gasket doesn't move.
I always keep a thin flat head screwdriver handy to tuck the gasket flush under the cover.
Jeff at Z1Enterprises carries what you need if your rubber seals and gaskets are pooched.
Cheers-Colin Firth-Ontario Canada
They should be somewhat malleable or slightly soft. If they are hard, replace them. If useable clean them really good to take off any residue and put a light coat of clear silicone caulking on the half moon base. Do this a little before putting on the new valve cover gasket and valve cover. You want the silicone to be tacky.
When putting on a new valve cover gasket make sure the surfaces are scraped clean of any old gasket material. I thin film of grease or clean motor oil on both sides of the gasket will help keep it in place and also aid in sealing. Be careful to line up the valve cover so the gasket doesn't move.
I always keep a thin flat head screwdriver handy to tuck the gasket flush under the cover.
Jeff at Z1Enterprises carries what you need if your rubber seals and gaskets are pooched.
Cheers-Colin Firth-Ontario Canada
-1977 Kz650 Custom bought new by brother. Now with 810 kit, GPz750 cams, intake valves, Mikuni 29 smoothbores, velocity stacks, Dyna Igntion, MAC pipe and other goodies.
-1982 Ferrari 308 GTSi Red/Tan
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-2010 Mazda CX-7 Turbo (my bride's)
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-1982 Ferrari 308 GTSi Red/Tan
-Toyota FJ Cruiser - 6 speed tank
-2010 Mazda CX-7 Turbo (my bride's)
-1998 Jeep TJ Wrangler 4.0...
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- APE Jay
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- Patton
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Re: cam caps
04 May 2007 22:05
Should remove fuel tank, all spark plug caps, and then all 16 cam cover bolts. Remove cover from right side. Sometimes the clearance is tight between the cover and frame, and if so, just go slowly and wiggle it free.
The most time consuming part will likely be carefully and thoroughly removing all traces of the old gasket material from both surfaces (cam cover and head). Best to also use new end plugs with the new gasket. Absent some obvious damage to the mating surfaces, no silicon or other sealer is needed on the new gasket. Installed dry, mine have stayed that way and do not leak. Others recommend grease, oil or chapstick on the new gasket before reinstalling.
Okay to use a small dab of silicon or other sealer around the end plugs before reinstalling the cam cover. FSM says 10-11.5 ft-lbs torque on the bolts. I just use a criss-cross pattern and get them barely snug. Remember the 2 spark plug wire clamps (if you use them).
While the cam cover is off, might want to also check the valve clearances (and make notes for future reference). Hopefully all will be within specs.
Also would be a good time to replace the rubber o-ring and seal in the tach pinion shaft holder if there's any oil seepage from that area.
The most time consuming part will likely be carefully and thoroughly removing all traces of the old gasket material from both surfaces (cam cover and head). Best to also use new end plugs with the new gasket. Absent some obvious damage to the mating surfaces, no silicon or other sealer is needed on the new gasket. Installed dry, mine have stayed that way and do not leak. Others recommend grease, oil or chapstick on the new gasket before reinstalling.
Okay to use a small dab of silicon or other sealer around the end plugs before reinstalling the cam cover. FSM says 10-11.5 ft-lbs torque on the bolts. I just use a criss-cross pattern and get them barely snug. Remember the 2 spark plug wire clamps (if you use them).
While the cam cover is off, might want to also check the valve clearances (and make notes for future reference). Hopefully all will be within specs.
Also would be a good time to replace the rubber o-ring and seal in the tach pinion shaft holder if there's any oil seepage from that area.

1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
KZ900 LTD
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- austin3119
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Re: cam caps
04 May 2007 22:30
Reborn and Patton,
I really appreciate your advice. Thank you.
Hey Jay, do you have those caps available in black?
Thanks again guys.
I really appreciate your advice. Thank you.
Hey Jay, do you have those caps available in black?
Thanks again guys.
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- RonKZ650
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Re: cam caps
05 May 2007 07:19
austin3119 wrote:
No, you wouldn't want BLACK caps would you? That looks too stock, we need mods :sick: You can use the replacements or get nice stock black ones. A couple things I'd mention. If they are leaking, don't attempt to seal them with silicon or other sealer because they will begin leaking again in a short time. Another thing is you might not need to even replace your gasket. I can usually slide a thin feeler guage or similar between the gasket and the half moons to separare the two then just replace the rubbers. Clean good, then use Yamabond #4 gasket sealer on the new rubber and between the rubber and the original gasket and just reuse the old gasket unless it's broken from removing the cover. Unless someone used gasket sealer on the gasket (don't!!).
Reborn and Patton,
I really appreciate your advice. Thank you.
Hey Jay, do you have those caps available in black?
Thanks again guys.
No, you wouldn't want BLACK caps would you? That looks too stock, we need mods :sick: You can use the replacements or get nice stock black ones. A couple things I'd mention. If they are leaking, don't attempt to seal them with silicon or other sealer because they will begin leaking again in a short time. Another thing is you might not need to even replace your gasket. I can usually slide a thin feeler guage or similar between the gasket and the half moons to separare the two then just replace the rubbers. Clean good, then use Yamabond #4 gasket sealer on the new rubber and between the rubber and the original gasket and just reuse the old gasket unless it's broken from removing the cover. Unless someone used gasket sealer on the gasket (don't!!).
321,000 miles on KZ's that I can remember. Not going to see any more.
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- APE Jay
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Re: cam caps
05 May 2007 09:29
austin3119 wrote:
No. Then people wouldn't look at your bike and say "he has those cool billet cam caps"
Jay
Reborn and Patton,
I really appreciate your advice. Thank you.
Hey Jay, do you have those caps available in black?
Thanks again guys.
No. Then people wouldn't look at your bike and say "he has those cool billet cam caps"

Jay
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- wireman
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- roystaylor
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Re: cam caps
05 May 2007 19:18
If you're going to use the rubber cam plugs, don't use silicon to seal them as they may squeeze out. I always superglue them on the curved surface, then a little thin dab of gasket sealer on the flats. Had one KZ900 that the billet plug would'nt fit because the head wasn't machined right from the factory, but they work fine in my LTD1000.
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- wireman
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Re: cam caps
06 May 2007 14:31
KZDave wrote:
differant style head;)Will the caps for a the 900/1000 fit an 1100?
--Daveh
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