Please help !

I have posted alot of questions in the past week or so. I am finally doing the rebuild in my 650CSR. I hope I don't ask to much, or become repettative in my questions, but this is my first bike rebuild. Did many car builds but first for the bike.

Is there a company or some place that offers a complete rebuild kit for the air cooled 4? rings gaskets, pistons, yada, yada, yada.

I am hoping there is because I hate hunting around for everything I need, little bits at a time. I ripped the engine out today and want to get my parts together before jumping in.

Thanks again, this KZ Rider site has been a great source for info.

You guys rock!
And I know, I'm a bass player.

Post edited by: NightRider, at: 2005/12/18 16:04

The first place I would chec is Z1 Enterprises. Jeff is a member of the site and very knowledgable, plus he's a nice sort of guy. Other than him, I would think a local Kawasaki shop, but I bet Jeff would do you better.

Most if not all bike shops should be able to order a complete gasket kit. Rings are not included. They are seperate or with a piston kit. Ordering over net is a good way to save money, bike wreckers and ma&pa shops are cheaper than a dealership, usually. Motorcycle cylinders are more suceptable to wear than cars. Don't usually get a chance to just change rings. Although it is possible. Be aware finish on cylinder is super critical to breaking in a new set of rings. You might be able to get away with just honing and new rings but don't hold your breath or bet your first born on it.

Hey NightRider. Last winter, I did exactly what you are just embarking on. The 650 is a pretty straightforward engine to work on. Keep in mind that when you start disassembling the engine take lots of pics and bag and tag everything properly. There are a few small parts in the camshaft/timing gear assembly that can easily fall into the crankcase, so take your time when removing.

I have never dealt with Jeff at Z1enterprises but everyone around here seems to have very good comments about his prices, service and his knowledge of the old Kbikes is second to none.

It doesn't hurt to also get to know one of the parts guys at your local dealership in case Jeff doesn't have the part you need. Having a contact that you can develop a good working relationship with throughout your rebuild might get you some better pricing as many dealerships have a little wiggle room when it comes to discounts for regular customers. I can promise you that original Kawasaki parts are more expensive than aftermartket in my experience.
Also I would suggest that you learn to use the buykawasaki.com website for correct part numbers. I find it a lot easier to order using the numbers off of the part diagram on Kawasaki's website.
Other than that, have some fun!

1977 KZ650 Custom. Brought back from the dead after 13 years of neglect. Totally rebuilt from frame up. Wiseco 700 kit. Ported, polished heads. Triple angle valve job. Properly re-jetted rebuilt carbs, Filters, MAC Pipe, Barnett Clutch, Shortened Signal Light Stalks, Sculpted Seat, Painted Speedo/Tach Collars and Brake Calipers, Recessed Licence Plate, Polished Headlight Bucket, Bridgestones, Bead blasted rims, 14 tooth sprocket front, Superbike Bars, Painted 2005 Chrysler Magnum Red with silver and gold stripes. Only 13,000 miles on bike. Runs and looks like new and does it ever jump off the line!

Cheers-Colin Firth-Ontario, Canada

No one makes a "rebuild" kit for these bikes. You can get a gasket kit then have to purchase rings, pistons separatly unless you buy a big bore kit like Wiseco then they will include piston's, rings, clips, head and base gasket. I rebuilt my top end 2 years ago with a Wiseco 720cc big bore kit and it cost me about $550.00 with me doing all the work. Good luck and have fun with this.

Should I be concerned with rebuilding the bottom end? Or will a big bore kit and gaskets suffice? How reliable are the mains for these engines? Also I've heard about people using 750 heads, I was planning on a new head since who-ever had this bike last stripped one of the exhaust studs and used a time-cert that failed while I was cruising down the road.

Thanks guys...


Here's wher I'm at now...

I believe Kawi bottom ends are known to be way over engineered and relatively bullet proof. With the 650 I would take a look at your primary HYVO drive chain (unless it is the gear driven bottom end (CSR might be gear driven, early models chain)). Also as starter gear is internal would not hurt to replace balls and springs.

I replaced the crank in my old 650 twice. Both times my fault. (Ran out of oil once, hit a curb once, hard) When I replaced them with cranks out of engines with who-knows-how-many-miles, in both cases I just used Plastigage to check clearances and they were perfectly fine. Since it sounds like you're pulling the whole motor apart, I would just replace the cam chain and any of the rubber cam chain cushions that look questionable and check the rod/main bearing clearances with Plastigage, but I would bet they're fine.

Also, If you're mixing and matching parts like that, I vaguely recall there are three different bearings that could have been used, they are id'd by colors, brown, blue, red or something, be aware of that. If you're using what's already there you should be good.

There is very little chance that the bottom end in your engine is bad... If you split the cases to replace the cam chain which is a DEFINITE rebuild step, the use plastigage to measure bearing to crank clearances. The procedures will be in your service manual. The other thing to look at while you have the cases split is the transmission. I am not all that sure about 650s but 900s and 1000s can have the shift forks and gears wear a tad and they can pop out of gear and the like.

OK... since you likely won't have to rebuild the bottom end, the advice on the primary chain or whatever makes the tranny spin on your bike is good. Find out which you have and replace they either hyvo or regular chain since this chain if it doesn't cost too much.

Then... as far as the top end...

I personally am not a performance nut. I am not interested in hopping up these old motors much so that is where I am coming from. First thing I would do is find a 17mm blank drill bit. These are precision bits and if you can fit one through all four con rod holes where the piston pin would normally fit, the crank is straight. This is the best way to find out if the crank is straight I know of. Next, if you are not interested in high performance (and high bucks), measure the piston to cylinder clearance. If the bike is within spec, the hone and re-ring. Else, look at oversized pistons. Replace all circlips... don't reuse.

Then you will want to examine your valve train. You can hardly know what needs to be done till you poke around. Minimum, you will want to replace valve stem oil seals and lap the valves/seats prior to reassembly. If you find any weak springs, worn guides, or you can't clean the valves or their stem length is too long, you will need to replace bits and get a valve job done. The stem height measurement will be a good determining test. If the stem is too long, the valves are up into the seats too far and you need to take some off the end of the stems OR replace seats.

One thing to consider is that it is EASY to find a cylinder/pistons on eBay. You might have to but a set or two to find one that is well within spec but if the ones on your bike are outside spec, then it will be cheaper to buy a used block/piston set or two than it will be to buy new oversized pistons/rings, etc.

My suggestion is to get some good bore gauges, have a careful look at your service manual and its service specs and make your decisions prior to diving in. It is a lot less expensive in the long run than trying to buy this and that prior to rebuilding. ALSO, buy an engine seal set and replace all engine seals. Buy new fasteners where possible and clean all threaded holes and blow them out good. Retap any hole that is suspect. Pay attention to where it is suggested to use thread locker and where torque specs are recommended...

Merry Xmas!