I had to repost a few of my How-2's to make sure they didn't get lost in the shuffle.
How to replace your clutch.
I decided that I would add the best bit of information I have about working on our bikes. Having successfully replaced 2 clutches, I have the concept down. If you follow these steps, you can have a brand-new clutch in about 2 hours.
Things you will need:
Tools:
- Hand-Impact driver, and correct bit for your bike's cover. (Not pneumatic)
-Gasket scraper
-Rubber mallet
-Rag
-Oil Pan
-Misc. Wrenches ratchets, etc.
-Mirror, at least 8 inches across.
Consumables:
-Replacement Gasket
-Oil
-Friction plates
-Springs
Prep-Work:
-Remove the friction plates from their package, and let them soak in the correct type of oil (not going to go into THAT conversation here) overnight.
-Drain the Oil from your crankcase into the pan, and discard.
-Slacken the clutch cable at the lever so there is maximum play in the cable.
-Remove any parts of the bike that will get in the way of your accessing the clutch case cover, like the rear brake pedal, and foot peg.
The real thing:
-Using the impact driver, CAREFULLY remove the screws holding the cover on. FYI, it is the one with the oil-sight in it. The first time I replaced a clutch, I removed the wrong side of my bike at first! Note that one of the screws will have a small wire-clip under the head, holding the low tension wire to the ignition points. Keep track of which screw it is. Also important is to keep track of what length screw went into which hole.
-In order to remove the cover, you may need to get creative. The first time, I was able to dislodge the case cover by placing the rag over the cover, and whaling on it with a rubber mallet until the gasket separated. The second time, I was forced to use a crowbar. I braced it behind the oil-fill spout, and part of the frame. I don't suggest you try this, unless you have no other way of getting it off.
-Once you have the cover off, scrape the gasket off of both the case, and the engine. Be vary careful you don't gouge the aluminum; otherwise you'll have a permanent oil leak.
-On the clutch basket, you will see a retaining plate with 4 or 5 bolts in it. Remove these, and the springs they are holding in place. Discard these springs. Pull the plate off, and get ready to use your brain.
-You will notice that there are two different types of disks inside of the basket. One type is just plain steel, and the other one has what looks like cork on it. As you remove these, remember the order (or just remember what the last one you take out looks like). Throw away the plates that have the cork-like stuff on them. Inspect the steel plates for bluing, and warpage. (Place the plates on the mirror, and make sure it is flush all-around). If the discs show either of these signs, you should replace them.
Reassembly:
-Place the disks back in the clutch basket in the order you removed them, alternating steel, friction, steel, friction... etc.
-Replace the retaining cover and install the new springs, and bolts in the clutch basket. Tighten them in a crisscross pattern.
-Lightly coat the gasket with oil, and reinstall the cover with the new gasket in place.
-Replace the case screws, being careful to put the correct length screw in the correct hole, and put the cable clip back on the correct screw. If you wish, use an anti-seizing agent on the screws to ease their later removal. This would be a good opportunity to replace the original case screws with stainless-steel Allen-head bolts.
-Torque the case screws to specs, (You should be able to find these in a service manual) and replace any parts you needed to remove in order to access the cover.
- Refill the engine with the correct oil, and tighten the clutch cable so there is approximately 1/8 inch play at the end of the clutch lever.
- While the bike is on it's center stand, and the rear wheel is off the ground, put the bike in gear, and make sure that the wheel spins freely when the clutch is pulled in. (Some resistance will remain. If it is hard to turn, this may be normal, our clutches do this sometimes. Drop the bike onto its wheels, hold in the clutch, and try and walk the bike. If it rolls, you're in good shape, otherwise you messed up somewhere; either you put the clutch plates in backward, or the cable is too loose. Double check your work.
- Start up your bike, and enjoy your new clutch!
After-notes:
It's been a few years since I did my first write-up on this process, and since then I've replaced yet another clutch (On my goldwing... not fun).
I stand by these instructions, and I know of many people that have used them with great success. I find it somewhat fun to surf the web, and see people re-post my instructions, or link to them from their web pages. I have no problem with you doing this, just please give me credit on your page (philip Sanderson), and mention that the home for these instructions is kzrider.com.
While I don't hang out at this site much anymore, I monitor this thread, and if a question is posted up, I'll answer it.
Post edited by: philcsand, at: 2006/04/22 18:05
