homemade headers/exhaust

That sounds like quite the *pricey* way to make something that the 'furnace' coming out of your engine just might... melt... :pinch:

well the melting point of copper is 1984.32 °F.
how hot is the engine were the exhaust exits?
I would guess under 1200 because if it was more than that the aluminum engine would melt
and as for cost I only said it would look cool

I didn't know that copper had such a high melting point; perhaps I ought to look up it's softening point, as well...?

Nah -- if it's made of copper, these days, there's a small army of tweakers out there just waiting to rip it off... :pinch:

copper would be awesome and i don't think it would be that hard. The only tough part would be pouring the melted copper in the cast without having any bubbles in it, and making a wax that was completely round and smooth inside and out.

I'm sure you already know about this site but just in case here it is backyardmetalcasting.com/forums/
they can answer any tech questions you might have on casting most anything

K-man wrote:

...and made me upset just to look at it.

If you were wearing the glasses in your avatar pic, I can see why.

:whistle:

wireman wrote:

you use the reverse polarity setting on a dc welder.you need a tig torch and an argon bottle i believe it is,havent done it in a while.anyway you hook positive cable from welder to the end of lead coming from tig torch and hook your ground cable to the work like normal.make sense?

I was practice welding stainless last Sunday. Yes, Argon. A straight DC welder is pretty much useless for a beginner like me as I can't get the arc started without effing the Tungsten. Using high frequency DC. Yes, SS is much easier than Aluminum. TIG is really sweet for mild steel.

Hi Duck,
I'd imagine that a hook up with a DC welder would leave you missing a very important part of the TIG process the foot control! Using a DC welder you'd have to strike an arc by either touching the tungsten which would trash it or you'd have to walk on water as you come close enough to start an arc without touching. I have a Miller SyncWave 200. It's a Tig welder that cools the electrode with the shielding gas. (Fancier machines use liquid to cool the electrode.) To start an arc I bring the electrode near to the work and depress the foot control, if I'm anywhere near the work, the arc jumps. There's something about the pulsing that causes the spark to have more power at a distance than it does up close. You learn very early to stop welding by backing off the foot control rather than pulling the electrode away from the work.

One thing that's great about TIG welding is that the foot control is exactly like a throttle, if you see that it's too hot you can back off while still welding. If you can't get that wad of metal to merge with the base metal you can easily put your foot in it and it'll drop right in.

KZCSI