tensioner?

it the spring tensioner on my motor ok for racing?

or should i get a manual tensioner?

i assume you are refering to the cam chain tensioner? stock tensioner in good condition works excellent. key words are...'good working condition' if the spring or hydraulics fail you could waste a motor. 50-60 bucks is cheap insurance for a known problem! SOOOOO I would go with the manual one and not have to worry about it! Like I mentioned 'cheap insurance'

Is the motor stock,or have You done any mods to it?
There's a lot of variables,that's why I ask.

I'm just scratching the surface,as far as the mods done to MY engine,compared to what's available for the KZ's,but for My budget(beer's not free,lol),and what I wanted for an end result,I tried not to cut any corners.

I learned a lot,doing the mods,and a lot of great people here to thank for it.

SO...what do You have,and what do You WANT to have?
:whistle:

convert your stock one to manual! sorry jay!:blush:

wireman wrote:

convert your stock one to manual! sorry jay!:blush:

Friggindarnedcrap...translate your own curses....

I spent the past few weeks tearing the bike down to clean every nut and bolt and I was putting my cases back on my engine last night after bringing them up to a mirror finish. I had also pulled the cam cover polish it and to check the valve clearances.

Was putting the cam chain adjuster back on..torquing it nice and easy to spec when the top bolt hole mount on the cast aluminum adjuster cracked and broke off around the top bolt hole. Call it metal fatigue over 30 years or maybe the thing got dropped causing a split in the cast part.

I had measured the chain last week and ordered a new spring to make sure the tension was good. I had inspected the adjuster and it looked fine when I cleaned and lubed it, but these things can give up the ghost at any time.

Today I called Kawasaki to order another one and found out the cam chain adjuster is no longer available.

Friggindarnedcrap....again.

Looks like I will be putting on the APE manual tensioner since this is my only option unless my buddy has one in his spare parts treasure chest.

The moral of this story is...be careful with 30 year old parts as they might not be able to take factory torque ratings.

Cheers-Colin Firth-Ontario Canada

drill and tap the stock one and put a bolt and and stop nut on there to lock it in place,that is of course if yours isnt snapped off!

i'm going with either the 1170 or 1260 kit and rebuiling the head with better springs and i'm shaving it a little for a compression bump, i plan on getting shim under buckets and cams later on, open header an 34 mukines too.

and a two speed powerglide

i'm going with either the 1170 or 1260 kit and rebuiling the head with better springs and i'm shaving it a little for a compression bump, i plan on getting shim under buckets and cams later on, open header an 34 mukines too.

and a two speed powerglide

slip and slide with powerglide:whistle: