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Frustrated.. Cam chain, valve shims, low compression
- AR15Ron
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See slack:
Slack without my finger in there:
Now no slack:
I'm going to attempt to figure out if the cams are in time with the crank as soon as I can gather my wits about me again.. This is new territory for me.
Thanks much
Ron
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- KaZooCruiser
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My bike is maybe different from yours in adjustment procedure:
From my own experience, the crank is supposed to be rotated until 2-3 timing marks on the advancer unit are rotated past the window, until the high point just past them on the advancer is directly under the stationary pointer. Then the adjuster lock is slackened, allowing the tensioner to move forward. It is then re-locked with the anchor bolt.
I'd get the lobes up on cylinder three and try tapping the buckets on both intake and exhaust. Maybe there is some dirt on more likely the exhaust seat, preventing the valve from closing all the way. But in reading your post again, maybe the valve can't close all the way because the clearance is gone.
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- AR15Ron
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Just ordered the tool, feelers, and one of the smallest shims available (for testing) from Z-1. Guess we shall see what we see when we see it, or something. I think I'll have exhausted my positive thinking powers by the time this is done.
Post edited by: AR15Ron, at: 2007/03/21 12:40
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- Mcdroid
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If you haven't already done so, get a KHI Shop Manual (eBay will be the source). Expect to pay between US$10.00 and $45.00, depending on bidding demand. The one you need should have a KZ1000A3 on the cover. If you have no compression on #3, you will probably be seeing parts of your bike you never dreamed about. The KHI manual will greatly aid you.
Michael
Victoria, Texas
1982 GPz750
1977 KZ1000A
1978 KZ1000A
1982 GPz1100
1975 Z2A
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- AR15Ron
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- wiredgeorge
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Here is what I suggest:
Remove your plugs.
Using the 17mm nut on the end of the crank by the mechanical advance, rotate the crank so that the T mark on your advance lines up with the mark on the engine cases. Look at the exhaust cam and see if the mark:
>
is pointed at the valve cover gasket to the front. If not, turn the engine over again till you get to the T and the mark on the engine cases and get them lined up again. The > should not be pointed to the front.
OK... now stick you pinky or a pencil down the #4 plug hole. You should feel the piston. This is TOP DEAD CENTER.
OK... remove the upper idler assembly. That is the sprocket up on top the cylinder head that guides the cam chain. Now, with the > pointed at the valve cover gasket pointed to the front, count the first link pin ABOVE the arrow. The arrow will point kind of between two links pins. Link pins are the the pins that link the plates. Anyway, start counted on the first one above the >. Count 28 link pins counterclockwise. You should be seeing an arrow on your intake came with 28T. It should line up pretty much with the 28th pin. If not, the chain has slipped.
If the chain has slipped, remove the cam chain tensioner (on back of block) and the cam caps. Pull the cams out while you hold the chain so it doesn't drop into the well. WIGGLE THE CHAIN and pull it to make sure it is ON repeat ON the sprocket on the crank. Give it a tug... it shouldn't slip any if it is on the sprocket. Then put your exhaust cam in with the > pointed at the valve cover gasket to the front. Stick the INTAKE cam back in and count 28 link pins and put the 28th over the arrow by the 28T.
Reinstall your idler assembly and the tensioner. To install the tensioner, loosen the locking bolt and push the tensioner into the body. Install the tensioner and release the locking bolt. You will hear the tensioner snap out into the cam chain. Don't forget to tighten the bolt and locknut. Then put the idler assmebly back on. At this point, if you have all that slack, you will need to put a new cam chain on.
Once you have the chain timing looked at, then the next step is the valve shim clearances. Bet that may fix your compression issue. Hope so!
Post edited by: wiredgeorge, at: 2007/03/21 15:11
wiredgeorge Motorcycle Carburetors
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- AR15Ron
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I'm pretty sure the arrow you speak of is lined up on the exhaust cam. My manual made ti seem as if it should have been on the other side, which had me very confused. I will check it all out when I get home in the morning. I think I will follow the procedure regardless and make SURE the intake cam is in time with the exhaust cam too. I really appreciate all your input! I really hope you're right about the valve shims fixing the compression. I am keeping my fingers crossed.
Ron
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- AR15Ron
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I also found on the exhaust cam in order, less than .04, less than .04, .10, and less than .04. On the intake cam in order. less than .04, .20, was 0, and .010.
Looks like I have some work to do, but I do have compression again which is very encouraging.
Ron
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- mark1122
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- Keep twisting it
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76 KZ, frame gusset work,1200CC.Ported by Larry Cavanaugh, 1.5mm.over intakes, Carron Pipe, ZRX12 rear end, and seat,96zx9 front end.
01 CBR600F4i Track bike.
Cobourg, Ont. Can.
~ ~ ~_@
~ ~ _- \,
~ (k) / (z)
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- AR15Ron
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Intake: .05, .04, .10, .10.
Now that #3 is shimmed correctly compression has come down to 148.5. So I ordered shims for those 2 from Z-1 should be in business by Thursday. Oh BTW that $8 tool isnt that bad to use for removing the shims. Little touchy getting the holder lined up on the bucket edge but otherwise fairly easy. I did have the pry piece shoot out and hit me in the face but that was my fault. Luckily I wear glasses LOL.
Ron
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- ronjones
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Hey Ron, I'm glad you are having good luck w/that tool. I'm having a terrible time. The "lever" tool doesn't depress the valves low enough. It hits the head case before I can get the 'spacer" tool to make good contact. I'm thinking of bending it a bit or grinding a "chisle" end to get a better bit.... Oh BTW that $8 tool isnt that bad to use for removing the shims. Little touchy getting the holder lined up on the bucket edge but otherwise fairly easy. I did have the pry piece shoot out and hit me in the face but that was my fault. Luckily I wear glasses LOL.
Ron
Ron
'82 KZ750 CSR, M1 twin. Mac 2-1 exhaust, K&N pods, 17tooth drive sprocket, Mikuni BS-34 carbs w/#47.5 pilot jet and #125 main jet, Canadian XS650 needlejetjet needle, Wired George's coil mod.
Barrak, Nancy and Harry says: Welcome to the United Soviet States of America, Comrades
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- AR15Ron
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Ron
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