Help,How to use Kawasaki shim adjustment tool

Hi, I would like some info on how to use the kawasaki shim tool (1pc plate w semi circular cutout,1pc bent rod). I am a new owner of a 79z1000, the bike came with several tools,and would like to know how to use the shim tool. I am familiar in using the shim tool that is a rod with a hook end that you wedge in between the cams and valve bucket, but cant figure how to use this two part tool. Your help would greatly be appreciated. Thanks.

Post edited by: charliejay, at: 2007/02/08 17:38

this help?
Valve Clearance Adjustment
www.dansmc.com/valveclearence.htm

Here's a picture (sorry about the quality) of a shim tool, taken from the KZ900 manual.
Does yours look like this?

Kawasaki Valve Tool
121-08019
• Fits all KZ 750/900/1000/1100/1300 models

Post edited by: kano, at: 2007/02/08 18:22

That is the tool I have. The plate that looks like a bat and the bent rod with a knob. Couldn't figure how to use the pair.

its been so long since i did it i cant remember what i used or how i did it.
but somehow i knew what tool you meant so the head mechanic at z1 city must have showed me how to use it.
i just cant remember, did a quick Google didn't come up with anything sorry dude.
one of the other guys will know im sure.

I use only the "bat" and don't fool with the bent rod at all. Transmission should be in neutral.

First measure all clearances with feeler gauges and write down the numbers.

RULE #1 NEVER ALLOW BOTH VALVES TO BE OPENING AT THE SAME TIME -- Because they will hit each other inside the combustion chamber and bend. So if you're working with the exhaust valve, be certain the intake cam lobe is NOT opening the intake valve while the tool is holding the exhaust valve open. And vice-versa -- when working on the intake valve, be certain the exhaust cam lobe is NOT opening the exhaust valve while the tool is holding the intake valve open.

While valve is open (meaning pushed down by the cam lobe) careful placement of the "bat" onto the edge of the bucket will hold the valve open while the cam is turned away (use a wrench on the largest bolt -17mm- under the ignition cover to hand turn the crankshaft) just enough whereby some space is created between the lobe and shim. Go slowly and carefully as the "bat" must be placed precisely into position and held until it catches onto the edge of the bucket. Use a pencil magnet or tweezers to remove the shim. The size stamp on the shim should hopefully be visible on the underside. Replace shim with proper size (usually thinner). Turn cam lobe back to hold valve open while removing the "bat".

The "bent rod" tool part is designed to fit between the lobe and shim and pry the valve open while the bat is inserted (without using the cam lobe to open the valve). For me, it was easier to use the cam lobe.

Have no experience with the factory type tool which may be easier to manipulate and hold in place.

The procedure is easier than the description.


Now before starting, please re-read RULE #1 :laugh:

RULE #1 NEVER ALLOW BOTH VALVES TO BE OPENING AT THE SAME TIME -- Because they will hit each other inside the combustion chamber and bend.

Post edited by: Patton, at: 2007/02/08 19:25

Thank you very much for the info:)

Jeffrey, You don't have a Kawasaki valve shim tool. You have a Motion Pro valve shim tool that will work for a Kawasaki. The genuine Kaw tool works much better and is far easier to use.

To use YOUR tool (it will work, I have one), do this:

OK, first measure your valve clearances. On the buckets where you need to replace a shim:

1. turn crank using 17mm nut so that the cam lobe for the valve you want to check clearance for points away from the valve. Turn the bucket so that you can get to the cut out.
2. Place the lever tool between the bucket and cam lobe and push the bucket down.
3. Place the butterfly shaped thing on the EDGE of the bucket and NOT on the shim (TRICKY PART).
4. Holding the butterfly thing so it doesn't move, roll the cam lobe onto the butterfly thing so that it catches and holds it so that the bucket remains depressed.
5. pull out shim (tweezers, dental pick, magnet)
6. replace with new shim and roll the crank the opposite way you turned it to get it holding down the butterfly thing so that you can pull the butterfly thing out.

You would do well to make a LOG in your shop manual recording the valve clearances and shims installed so you can COMPUTE which shim will be needed before swapping them out if the clearance is inadequate. I also have a valve clearance section on our web site showing HOW to do all this stuff but the GENUINE KAW tool is pictured. www.wgcarbs.com

Thank you very much guys for the info, this would be a great help. Charlie