What's your technique for carburetor removal/installation?

I read a lot on this site and have heard a couple ways that people go about this; some loosen the intake boots and can slide them back then out - personally, I don't have the space for that with my airbox! I just read that someone prefers to remove/install the airbox-to-carb boots from inside the airbox. It sounds oily, but might be easier than my method.

I've been using the side of a screwdriver (or similar smooth round object) to push down on the airbox boots to remove them, and during reinstallation, I first tighten down the carbs into the intake boots and then fold the airbox boots in half to push them in between the carbs and airbox, then try to wiggle them into the airbox, then unfold them...typing this out I think I might be insane.

Anyway, I'm interested in everyone's techniques!

IF the airbox boots are pliable enough, you can basically fold them back over themselves to slip the carbs in. Being warm from sitting in the sun or CAREFUL use of a heat gun can help soften them up. This technique is easier when the airbox boots are longer as on the KZ900. I found the installation to be a bit more challenging on the 750E I did this spring which has shorter airbox boots. The 750 also has the springs retaining the boots on the carb intakes, that are fun to get back on if/when they pop off during the carb insertion.

Mike

Take a close look at the airbox to see if it has any screws or brackets hidden on its sides. My KZ650 airbox has 2 little brackets screwed to its sides, but they are a bit hard to find. To remove the airbox boots it helps to remove those screws. That gives just a little more room for the airbox to move back, but a little is better than none. Ed

Good point Ed! The 750 I was fighting with had the airbox brackets probably very similar to your 650, I removed them and used a bungee cord to hold the airbox as far to the rear as possible.

Mike

While far from being any type of an expert at removing the carb rack from my KZ-1000 I have found that the best way for me of doing this is to fold the air ducts over on themselves. I use a hair dryer to warm the ducts up before folding them over which helps in this regard, but this does put a strain on them. I had an inside duct split while trying to fold it over. Rubber that's 40+ years old isn't as flexible as one would like it to be. New ducts are much more pliable. I pop the rack out of position by pushing down on the air box side of the carbs and stop there, remove the interlocking carb plate and then I remove the cable ends from the pulley. If you do this right you don't even have to mess with the cable adjustments. It takes me about 15 mins to remove the carb rack, but installation is longer obviously. When re-installing the carbs I always put a little lube around the inside of the carb holders to help in pushing them back in place. You can easily feel that satisfying "pop" when they go into the holders. I am sure others have their own little tricks for this operation, but the biggest aid for me was finding out about rolling the air ducts over on themselves as it gives you just enough room to work the carbs off and on with little to no struggle.
Rick H.

The FlyingFreeMole has a good picture of the fold over the boots technique that RickH and I both suggested in his thread on the 1977 KZ1000LTD.

Mike

I got my wife to do it. She has smaller, stronger hands. Besides, it is HER bike! :laugh: