Prime time for KZ1000P mods.... ideas?

Greetings and salutations my fellow Kawasakians....

So here's the deal, I've got a 02 KZ1000p that I've been doing a tune up on, basically Rebuild Carbs ( more on that later) change the plugs, oil, filters, clutch.

While i'm waiting on the carb to cyliner boots to come in, what mods would YOU do to this thing? Its 100% stock, Nothing done to it, still has the emissions, but id like to ditch that, can anybody point me in the right direction for that?

Bike has 81000 miles on it and i really enjoy it.

Oh yeah the Carbs. they have been a headache. rebuilding them wasnt difficult, but getting them retuned is a pain. The biggest headache is it'll idle fine, but when i rev it it'll either bog and die, or it'll rev to about 4k and stay there. I believe its a symptom of work out boots, so i've already ordered a new set. Anybody have any ideas?


thanks in advance!

Tires: Bridgestone Battlax BT45, both front and rear. I inflate mine 28 PSI front and 32 PSI rear like the J model. 36 PSI front and rear as recommended for the P models is for those run flat tires. You will want a higher performing tire than those run flats.

Rear Sprocket: I switched the rear sprocket from the 41 tooth to the 39 tooth to match the J model as well. The P model is an interceptor for police pursuit. Losts of low end torque and high RPM at freeway speeds. The 39 tooth sprocket still leaves plenty of low end torque but makes freeway and highway speeds much more enjoyable.

I couldn't stand the foot boards so I replaced them with pegs. Here is the link in this forum where I discuss that.. I start commenting on the second post. The images are no longer there so I'll post them again here.



I find the riding much more enjoyable with pegs. Oh, I also found a better shifter lever at a scrap yard. Longer shaft and I had to bend it a bit after heating with a torch, but now it is perfect.

Removing the emissions is simple. There is a vacuum module above the valve cover that attaches with hoses to both sides of the valve cover and then goes back to the air box. Most people just hook the to valve cover hose attachments together and plug the hole in the air box.. I bought some cheep metal plates that fit under those valve cover exhaust attachment points. There are lots of topics in this forum on how to do what I just mentioned.

Absolutely the gear change as Jakedude suggested. The freeways are much more relaxed and you really don't lose much acceleration. I don't mind the floorboards but I would love to tighten up the linkage so it doesn't flop around as much. I've replaced most of it and I guess it was designed loose.
I would leave the emissions alone. It doesn't hurt performance and you really can't see it anyway with the fairing in place.
I added a voltmeter to the fairing as well as a USB port.
Have you done a valve adjustment?

Haven't touched the valves, it's got 81000 miles on it. It's got new shinoko (sp?) Tires on it. That alone was as night and day change.

It's 100% led lighting, no halogen anywhere on the bike, to include dash lights.

I've ordered new carb boots, they'll be here next week.

So ditch emissions or keep? The sprocket sounds like a good idea.

You should adjust the valves. Do you know when they were done last? That might be causing some of the problems you are experiencing.

www.barebonerides.com/2000-kawasaki-kz1000p-chp-cafe-racer.html

Don't have a clue seen they were done last. Probably should do em anyway

c7j6y1 wrote: Don't have a clue seen they were done last. Probably should do em anyway

On a used bike, you should assume that routine maintenance was never done. Doing all of the recommended and required maintenance items in the factory service manual will not only help prevent problems, it will make you more familiar with the machine, may prevent future problems, and will give you peace of mind and a happy machine.