Pic test

swest wrote: Good point. I'd have a much steeper pitch as well. Snow is heavy.
Steve

Well the way it happened,I wanted to keep the back end under the roof over hang in the back,the back wall of the new shed is the side wall of the back shed.Didnt want to go any lower in the front or I'd be bangin' my head every time I walk in or out.Dont need no more drain bamage.About 15 yrs ago I built a fully enclosed shed at my cabin,its got 4" drop over 10' and its been rock solid,so I figure 3' over 8' should be okay,we'll see.If it looks like its sagging I'll remove it and do a full peak to match the back shed next season.
No concern there,Bill.Not gonna cover it in the shed.I plan to start and run it once a week and ride it when the roads and temps permit.Should be enough air flow with no doors to keep it fairly dry.

A little over 2% is ok but as mentioned ,snow load will be your problem along with positive drainage away from your structure. My problem is the kids and grand kids having to store junk in my shed They havent seen any of it in 3 years. Time for a bon fire

:ohmy: They'll hate you.
Steve

stokes wrote: Yes it is,mission.Mission Amps?

missionkz wrote: Curious, is it Stokes from Ampage?

Yes.
Nice to run into you again

Yeah,small world,eh.Havent been on Ampage in a while.Got real busy with the amps when every body found out I was moving out of NYC then I moved and got real busy with the move and setting up in the new house,

stokes wrote: ...I plan to start and run it once a week and ride it when the roads and temps permit.

I don't want to be the busy body who tells what you should and shouldn't do, but what the hell. I can't help myself!
When you start a unit construction motorcycle it takes about 20 minutes of riding before the whole thing gets up to temperature. If you start your bike and run it for a few minutes and then shut it down confident that you've moved the oil around enough, you have. But what you've also done is allowed water vapor that blew by the pistons to accumulate in the transmission where it will soon condense into liquid water, this is not cool!
I can't tell you how many times I read a post where a member is asking why his siteglass is obstructed with some sort of milky goo. Where could it have come from? The answer is simple the rider has been confining his riding to short trips and not allowing the whole engine and transmission to come up to a high enough temperature to drive the water vapor out through the ventilation system.
Unless you're willing to start your bike and rig a fan to cool the cylinders for 20 minutes or so of static running, you would be better to kick it over a few times with the kick starter and put a trickle charger on the battery once a month. If your bike doesn't have a kick starter pull the plug wires and put some dummy plugs into the caps, arrange the plugs to be grounded against the head and crank it over till you see the oil light go out.
As I've heard others say about me: "Pay him no mind, he can't help hisself."
Bill

The point of starting it is more to keep the gas from gumming up the carbs.Been doing it this way for over 40 yrs,never had a problem.Usually run it 10-15 mins,the bike is in a shed,but tempwise its usually below freezing,so if a fan keeps it cool enough to idle at 90 deg ambient temps to keep it from overheating,sub freezing temps should fend off any chance of overheating for 15 mins.Oil gets changed in the spring,even tho it has no miles on it,any condensation accumulated over the winter goes out with the oil in the spring.