Advice on refuelling after long period.
- Gordy
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Should I get fuel into the carbs somehow first?
Or should I just fill the tank with fresh fuel and let her rip?
Any assistance would be great as I don't won't do something silly?
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- Kwaker2000
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if not they might be gumed up , i would put her on prime first,wait a bit for the carbs to fill up make sure it doesint overflow out of carbs if floats stick ,if all is well put choke on give her a short birst on starter ,to get fuel in cylinders ,then another press on starter she should fire up ,then turn petcock to run ,thats what i would do
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- KZB2 650
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1978 KZ650 b-2
700cc Wiseco kit 10 to 1.
1980 KZ750 cam, ape springs, stock clutch/ Barnett springs.
Vance and Hines Header w/ comp baffle and Ape pods, Dyna S and green coils, copper wires.
29MM smooth bores W/ 17.5 pilots, 0-6s and 117.5 main
16/42 gearing X ring chain and alum rear JT sprocket.
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- Gordy
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Kwaker2000 wrote: cheak inside tank for rust first ,have you got an inline fuel filter ,did you drain carbs also
if not they might be gumed up , i would put her on prime first,wait a bit for the carbs to fill up make sure it doesint overflow out of carbs if floats stick ,if all is well put choke on give her a short birst on starter ,to get fuel in cylinders ,then another press on starter she should fire up ,thats what i would do
Yeah I drained the carbs too. I was leaving it off the road for more than a couple of months so it made sense to drain it before the fuel went off.
I will try you advice which I think I fully understand, this is a bit out of my wheel house. First time for everything I suppose!
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- Gordy
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650ed wrote: Why did you empty the tank? Ed
I bought the bike before I had my license so I knew it would be a good idea to drain everything out completely and not give the fuel a chance to go off.
The hope is the will mean I don't have to clean the carbs out.
KZB2 650 wrote: After draining I always put a quarter cup or so of WD40 and oil in the tank and swish it around for the winter. Not a spec of rust yet.
Good tip thanks
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- RonKZ650
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321,000 miles on KZ's that I can remember. Not going to see any more.
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- zukdave
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to leave fuel in the tank.
Rember the ethanol draw's moisture out of the air so unless
your tank is sealed air tight you WILL get water in it.
1980 KZ650 F1
ZX750A1 motor.
Wiseco 810cc kit.
Zukiworks racing ported head.
VM 29 smooth bore's.
Dyna 2000 Ign. w/Dyna mini coil's
APE cylinder stud's and nut's.
APE valve spring's.
APE Track King clutch.
V/H KZ1000 sidewinder.
3.5x18 laced to a KZ1000 disk hub.
150/60/18 Shinko 006 Podium.
63" wheel base.
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- 650ed
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zukdave wrote: With this ethanol fuel we have it's getting to be not a good idea
to leave fuel in the tank.
Rember the ethanol draw's moisture out of the air so unless
your tank is sealed air tight you WILL get water in it.
My experience has shown that not to be the case. Here in Maryland the vast majority of gas stations began selling 10% ethanol gasoline (E10) in May 2006. All the fuel I have used since then has contained 10% ethanol. I fill my fuel tank at the end of every fairly long ride at a station near my house, and during the Winter I keep the tank filled even though I only run the engine for short periods once a week to keep the battery charged and oil on the cylinder walls. I do add Stabil to the fuel at the beginning of the Winter.
My fuel tank has absolutely zero rust in it; the inside is still the original silver color that it had when I bought the bike new in April, 1977. I would expect if 10% ethanol was going to draw water into the tank and cause rust I would have at least some rust after using fuel containing ethanol for nearly 9 years. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- Zephyrrider
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Mick.
Mick
1994 ZR750 Zephyr C4.
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- LuckyLucOnBass
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bass player, bike rider, hockey fan.
1983 KZ550 M1
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