Winter Storage Check List.

Another winter is almost here. Depending on your location, you may already be feeling the touch of the deeper cold to come. For some of us Winter riding isn't a good time of year since the weather is just too cold or foul to make riding safe or practical. While for others, our bikes are our main if not our only transportation and winter riding is necessary no matter of the conditions or comfort in the general sense. But either way we all may face the need to store our bikes for a few months if not longer. Over the years I found that a check list can be helpful. It can extend the Factory list and add that custom touch that give our machines a longer life with fewer problems. And in the long run, less expense. Here is a check list I have found helpful. It has been gleaned from my experience, those of friends, magazines and now the web. The details may be different due to the needs of a specific bike or the type and duration of the storage. But I hope the reader will find it a nice overall framework on which to build.

1.) Find Location - First thing to do is make sure you have a suitable place to winter down. It should be Sheltered. Kept away from Extreme Temperatures and away from Chemical Fumes and Ozone. These may damage the Rubber and Plastic parts. Chemicals like solvents should be stored elsewhere and remember that Electric Motors produce Ozone as a by product of their operation. The spot should be out of the way and level. This, simply to avoid the bike being bumped into, knocked over or just falling on it's own should the stand sink into the flooring. (Believe me; it happens.) Inside on concrete is always a good bet.
2.) Gather Supplies - Get together all the supplies you'll need to Wash, Wax, Polish, Protect and Service the bike. Check Your Manual For Specific Products Specs that may apply to your bike model and year. Look For Warnings on what not to use. Try to do this well ahead of time just in case you run short on Fall weather or finding what you need becomes a bit difficult. In some cases you may need a few tools to remove one part in order to reach others and to do things like pulling Spark Plugs.
3.) Wash - Hand wash the bike. Use a cloth, sponge and a brush and anything else you have found, to help make sure you can reach all the small and hard places to get to. Clean as well as you can. Road dirt, film, bugs and road tar are real killers of paint and chrome. The longer they stay on your bike, the more time they have to start degrading both and become all that much harder to clean off later. (Anyone who has had to deal with Road Salting knows how much damage corrosion can do.) Make sure to dry the bike well. This will make the detail work a little easier and will stop the moisture from getting an early start.
4.) Polish And Wax - Use quality products designed for Paint, Chrome and Polished Metals. There are many on the market and are found in Auto as well as Motorcycle Dealerships and Shops. Use the brands you feel comfortable with but take the time to Read All The information On The Product to make sure it is suitable for your needs and the surface your applying it to. Use heavy applications but Follow The Directions.
5.) Clean And Treat - Clean and treat all the Leather, Cloth, Vinyl, Rubber and Plastic with your favorite cleaner/treatment. There are many of these on the market as well and can be quite specific for the type of material you are working with. Check Labels.
6.) Stabilize The Fuel System - Fill the tank with your Brand of fuel and add to it your Favorite Fuel Cleaner And Stabilizer. You can find this stuff at your Bike Dealer or Shop as well as any good Auto or Marine shop. And, as always, Read Those Labels And Follow The Directions. Run the bike through it's warm-up and shut down. Filling the tank helps by reducing air space in the tank which would allow room for moisture to form. The short run will distribute the stabilizer through the Fuel system. If your bike has a Petcock that has an "OFF" setting, turn the fuel off. If it only has "ON/RES", leave the fuel in the ON position. The thinking here is simply that if there is any sediment in the tank it will end up right on the bottom and closer to the Reserve Intake. This might cause any sediment to be more easily drawn into the system when you try to start the bike in Spring. It seems that this might be a good time to flush the tank and clean the Bowl at the bottom of the petcock if it has one that can be removed. "In-Line" Fuel Filters can be a great back-up. If your bike doesn't have a Petcock, all the better. Yours is most likely Fuel Injected. Draining the Carburetor Bowls I think is optional. The Stabilizer/Fuel mix run through the Carbs should protect them from gumming up if the bike has been run long enough to allow the mixture to flow through all the circuits. (All those tiny passageways that only long soaks in solvent can get to.)
7.) Fog The Cylinders - Spray Fogging Oil into each cylinder. If you can't get Fogging Oil, a little motor oil, WD-40 or a lubricant like Marvel Mystery Oil will do. Remember "Less Is More". All you want to do is cover the inside of the cylinder with a light film to prevent rust and help with that first start after storage. No more than a Teaspoon should be needed. The oil should be Spread By Foot Or Hand Cranking The Engine. The Electric Starter is said to turn the engine over too quickly and wipes the cylinders clean. Remember: Safety First. Make Sure The Battery Is Disconnected. Fogging Spray can be found In Marine and Bike shops. Now is a good time to change the Oil and Filter since the warn up has heated the oil and will help get all of the junk out of the case.
8.) Cover The Intakes And Exhaust - Plastic Bags work well. Seal them with rubber bands to create a tight seal. Before covering the exhaust, make sure it is cool enough as not to melt the plastic and spray a little WD-40 into each tail pipe.
9.) Remove The Battery - This is one step that is up to the owner. If the temperatures drop below freezing, in your neck of the woods, what water there is in the battery mixture may freeze and expand. This could damage the battery and cause it to leak when the weather warms up. Also, batteries like to be charged in full as mush as possible to maximize their life. This can easily be done with a Battery Manager or simply by being diligent and checking the charge often. Some riders may wish to leave the battery in their bike. If so. it should be Disconnected unless you have an Alarm System or some other need to leave it connected. Use Your Best Judgment And Check The Information That Came With The Alarm System.
10.) Make Sure The Tires Are Properly Inflated - Keep the pressure a bit short of the rated max, but enough to hold the bikes weight. Too much air may not leave room for expansion as the temperature changes in the Spring. And too little can cause flat spots on the tires if the bike is stored for an extended period.
11.) Put The Bike On It's Center Stand - If your bike only has a Kick Stand (like mine), be sure to place a Support Plate under the stand to spread out the load and prevent the stand from sinking into the flooring surface. If you have an After Market Center Stand, by all means make good use of it. The more stable the bike the better. Concrete flooring is good for all.
12.) Lock It Up - Make sure to properly secure your investment even in storage. There may be long periods between checks. There are a large number of Locks and Security Systems available. Think about your security needs and pick what works for your bike model and "Layer Your Security" when ever possible. Disc Locks in combination with a good old fashion Chain Lock can do the trick. If possible you may want to anchor the bike directly to the floor by way of an eyelet and chain or to the building itself.
13.) Cover It Up - If you haven't already bought a cover for your bike, now is a good time to invest in a quality cover that fits your bike well and maximizes the bike's protection. Make sure you find one that "Breathes". (Moisture build up under the cover can start the corrosion process.) A good tarp or blanket will due in a pinch. Don't use Plastic Sheeting. It holds the moisture under the plastic and around the bike. If your forced to use plastic, check your bike often and remove the cover to release any moisture buildup. If your storage space doesn't have a concrete floor, cover the flooring surface with plastic to prevent moisture from rising up from the ground below and collecting under the cover.
Since it's often easy to stray off the routine maintenance programs outlined by the Manufacture, putting our machines in storage gives us a good chance to catch up. Now is the time to service parts like the Chain, Cables and the like according to the manual. Some use this time to make heavier adjustments and checks like in the Clutch and Valves. This also gives us a chance to see what may need to be repaired or replaced next season. All the time and detail work will be well worth it when the Spring arrives and we head out to crank'em over after that long down time. Not having to deal with gummed or locked up parts makes life so much easier.

This Is Only A General Guideline I use to aid the task. I can not offer it as the definitive guide to motorcycle storage. I'm sure to be missing something important and/or fundamental. Everyone's needs are different even though we may be riding the same model bike. And of course, Every Bike Model And Year Has It's Own Service and Maintenance Protocols that must be followed to keep them running at their best. Please Always Follow Your Bike's Owner's Manual And Use Your Best Considered Judgment. Think ahead and carefully about the process and needs of your bike and what will do the best job for the bike and you. What works for one may not work for another. The care and effort we put into our machines is returned in the pleasure we feel when we head out for that first season run. That time when hearts beat fast and the passerby's turn their heads and smile as we roll by.

Peace, Health and No Speed Limit To All, Intrepid

What's winter?

I hope your talking Milder Winters rather than Hard Core Winter Riding. Had to do it for several years. And I'm pretty sure the winters here aren't as bad as they can be. I'm in the San Joaquin Valley, West of you, and we're pretty lucky here I guess. Although it does freeze, it's just the over night stuff and it then heats up fairly quick in the mourning sun the next day. It snows here like once in fifty Blue Moons. Most of that is more like super heavy frost. If it doesn't melt off by Noon, folks around here start talking like it's a sign of the Apocalypse. The real stuff is in the Mountains East of me. We do get the Fog. With the Inversion layer, it can hang around for days in some spots. You guys get "real" snow in your area don't you? I've heard that the storm fronts can be rough through your way. A lot worse than we get here.
I have people up in Ohio. The land were one practical joke involves a glass of water, sub-zero cold and the locks on your neighbors car or bike. It's best on those "Late for the mourning commute" days. I haven't ridden there since the mid seventies. It was late Fall and I made the mistake one night of wearing jeans and a light jacket. I didn't think that my teeth could chatter that hard and not break and to this day, I'm surprised that I could still have kids. But I did spend my High School and College days here in the Valley riding no matter what.
If your riding In the serious cold, my hat is off to you. It's tough. It was an experience I thought was going to kill me every year. And it's not that cold here by far.

To Warmer Climates and Short, if any, Down Time.
N.S.L. Intrepid

Best to put fresh oil and filter in it also.

Mcdroid wrote: What's winter?

Showoff. I grew up in Pearland, so I know what you mean.

That's a good point. It only got one sentence in the list when it should probably have it's own "Stand Alone" place. This was one of those tips I first heard from a old friend that spent a good deal of time bringing forgotten Nortons and Triumphs back from the dead. All of his machines ran like Swiss watches.
I also have seen it in a few Magazines too. The last few times I have gone with a lighter oil and changed back to the heavier grade as the weather warmed.
The next update will have the change and maybe a few adds.
Thanks and N.S.L., Intrepid

Winters in Indy IN. and Geneva OH., burrrrrr. Fireplace mmmmmmm.
Thanks and N.S.L., Intrepid

Mcdroid wrote: What's winter?

id ont know where you live but if i can sleep in your backyard ill bring down my84 750turbo
82 gpz 1100
78 Z1R 100
02 klr 650
and let you ride all but the 1100