Chain drive, why do we want it again?

Also, did you adjust the slack correctly? The owner's manual should have the procedure.
Some guys fail to find the tightest spot & just push the chain in one direction (either up or down) to measure the slack, which may result in a tight adjustment.

1981 KZ650: bike on center stand, rotate wheel to find tightest spot, measure the vertical movement of chain (ie, push up, then down for the total movement). To measure I use a folding carpenters ruler taped to a wood block, which makes the job easy & fairly precise.

martin_csr wrote: Also, did you adjust the slack correctly? The owner's manual should have the procedure.
Some guys fail to find the tightest spot & just push the chain in one direction (either up or down) to measure the slack, which may result in a tight adjustment.

1981 KZ650: bike on center stand, rotate wheel to find tightest spot, measure the vertical movement of chain (ie, push up, then down for the total movement). To measure I use a folding carpenters ruler taped to a wood block, which makes the job easy & fairly precise.

No tight spots in new high dollar chain. Correct slack adjusted while on center stand.

One other thought - when you removed the old sprockets did you notice signs of wear of the sides of the teeth in such a way that one side had more wear than the other? I ask because the chain can drag on one side of the front or rear sprocket if the rear wheel is offset even a little due to spacers, bearings, or chain adjusters being off a little, and that could contribute to the noise. Below are pics showing my original counter sprocket after 36,000 miles. The uneven wear was caused by the bike being set up with the chain adjusters on the sides opposite where they belonged (the KZ650-C1 has very slightly different left/right adjusters). The rear wheel was only offset in the swing arm by about 2mm, so it doesn't take much to cause the chain to run out of true. Ed

Yeah... why do manufacturers have so many different models? They could save a ton of money if they just made a standard motorcycle and let the people customize it. :blink: People have different needs and wants in a two wheeled ride or a 4 wheeled ride. Me... I don't want pods. I'd rather ride than wrench. Me...I like shaft bikes but I love KZ650 classics so I do not have a shaft bike right now. Still every time I got to do wheel or chain work I curse it. But I am also not looking for bookoo HP nor am I upset by shaft jack in the apex. 2 each their own. Chains have got better and so have shaft drives do the research and pick the one that suits you best. My good friend rides a 650 CVT and loves the bejesus out of it. Go figure!

Ed, actually the old front sprocket was worn a bit more on the inside, although not to the extreme as the one in your picture. I wonder about alignment and appreciate your thoughts. The chain adjuster parts are the same on both sides, according to Kawasaki.com. I have some problem getting the adjustment set just right, as my old eyes have trouble seeing the marks on the swing arm real well. Thanks!

GPz550D1 wrote: Ed, actually the old front sprocket was worn a bit more on the inside, although not to the extreme as the one in your picture. I wonder about alignment and appreciate your thoughts. The chain adjuster parts are the same on both sides, according to Kawasaki.com. I have some problem getting the adjustment set just right, as my old eyes have trouble seeing the marks on the swing arm real well. Thanks!

Sometimes the swing arm marks aren't entirely accurate.

Alignment may be verified by assuring that the same measured distance exists on both sides of the bike between center point of the swing arm pivot bolt and center point of the rear axle.

Where feasible, may also sight (from rear of bike) down along the top run of the chain as it leaves the drive sprocket and mounts the counter shaft sprocket.

The alignment should be absolutely straight as an arrow, with zero defection as it leaves the drive sprocket, with zero deflection between the sprockets, and with zero deflection as it mounts the counter shaft sprocket.

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote:

GPz550D1 wrote: Ed, actually the old front sprocket was worn a bit more on the inside, although not to the extreme as the one in your picture. I wonder about alignment and appreciate your thoughts. The chain adjuster parts are the same on both sides, according to Kawasaki.com. I have some problem getting the adjustment set just right, as my old eyes have trouble seeing the marks on the swing arm real well. Thanks!

Sometimes the swing arm marks aren't entirely accurate.

Alignment may be verified by assuring that the same measured distance exists on both sides of the bike between center point of the swing arm pivot bolt and center point of the rear axle.

Where feasible, may also sight (from rear of bike) down along the top run of the chain as it leaves the drive sprocket and mounts the counter shaft sprocket.

The alignment should be absolutely straight as an arrow, with zero defection as it leaves the drive sprocket, with zero deflection between the sprockets, and with zero deflection as it mounts the counter shaft sprocket.

Good Fortune!

Carefully measured today and as you say, the swing arm marks/adjuster slots are a little off. Makes me feel stupid that I have been riding this bike for 25,000 miles with things in the drive train not lined up right. No telling how much extra wear that takes out of the chain/sprockets and rear tire. Thanks!