Anyone here running a 1980 Z1 Classic EFI?

I know that this may be sacrilege, but if you can't find the FSM for the Classic, then pick up a Clymer manual for 1973-1981 Z & KZ 900-1000cc. It has the suppliment for fuel injected bikes in chapter 12.

That e-classic bike manual sales place that was linked here is the SHIZNITTY- they had the supplement- I bought the manual and the supplement, 'cause I need them - I paid for the fastest shipping, so lets see when we get them!

Got the manual- very, very nice! The supplement is there, but it really doesn't help us much I believe, as it gives no test procedures, really. The injectors are staying open, and the ground and power both go to the ECM, so I am hoping the ECM is not bad?

1982 Kawasaki GPZ1100 B2 ECU Pinout

I got out my well used service manual and copied the wire pin-out if you are going to use the EFI system.


The connector is numbered left to right with pin #1 on the lower row of pins
with #12 above #1 .

I'll give you the pin-out and wire colors that are viewed from the wire side.

#1 Black/Yellow Ground
#2 Blank
#3 Blank
#4 White/Red Battery +
#5 Blue/Red Sensor Ground
#6 Blue Air Temperature Sensor +
#7 Blue/Yellow Control Unit +
#8 Green Engine Speed
#9 Blank
#10 Gray Engine Temperature +
#11 Blue/White Throttle Opening Angle
#12 Yellow Injector Drive Signal
#13 Blank
#14 Blank
#15 Blank
#16 Black/Green Control Unit Ground
#17 Blue/Orange Throttle Sensor +
#18 Black Engine Speed
#19 Red/Black Starter Signal
#20 Blank
#21 Green/White Fuel Pump Relay Drive Signal


This might help in troubleshooting, maybe not, but this is al I've got on FI systems.

CruisingRam wrote:

Got the manual- very, very nice! The supplement is there, but it really doesn't help us much I believe, as it gives no test procedures, really. The injectors are staying open, and the ground and power both go to the ECM, so I am hoping the ECM is not bad?

My much maligned Clymer manual shows the test for injector signal as follows.

1)Remove fuel tank.

2)Disconnect all four fuel injector connectors.

3)Attach a voltmeter set a 10v to one injector socket's 2 pins (from the wiring harness)

4)Crank the engine with the electric starter and observe the voltmeter. Repeat for all the injector sockets. If the needle flickers at regular intervals, the electronic control system is operating.

a)If the needle does not flicker on any connectors, the control system is not operating; go to test no. 8 (Relay)

b)If the needle moves on some of the connectors, but not all, check the connections and wiring back to the wiring harness.

c)If the meter needle flickers, but you could not hear the injectors "ticking" in Step 2 of Before You Start The Test Sequence, the injector is faulty. Replace the injector.

d) If the needle flickers, the control system is operating. Skip to Test 10 (Flow meter)

It also cautions that you should NOT connect a 12VDC power source directly to an injector. It will ruin the injector's solenoid coil. You should hook a 5-7 ohm resistor in series with the battery or use a 3 volt source.

I hope this helps. It seems that my Clymer manual has an extensive test procedure for the fuel injection system. Surprising that it isn't in the FSM.