Help me guys, I need a few items

Hey guys...I'm trying to get a few 77-79 KZ650 projects off the ground (actually, back ON the ground). I need a baffle for a Kerker or similar exhaust measuring 3 7/8" diameter. I am also in need of the proper tool or bolt to remove the rotor for the alternator. Can you help me? Drop me a line. Thanks.

I use a rear axle to take the rotor off, think it was the 650 axle, it's the same size as the 750 rotors including the GPZ. You may be able to use the steering stem bolt (the chrome one), heard it works but I haven't tried it.

Can't help you with the baffle though, I have three mufflers and none have a baffle

ten6 wrote:

... need a baffle for a Kerker or similar exhaust measuring 3 7/8" diameter....

To see the $44.95 Kerker baffle made by Mac, open this link, click on Exhaust Parts (left side of screen), then click on Baffles. Scroll down to the $44.95 Kerker baffle made by Mac.

supplier

Good Luck with the quest!

steell wrote:

I use a rear axle to take the rotor off, think it was the 650 axle, it's the same size as the 750 rotors including the GPZ. You may be able to use the steering stem bolt (the chrome one), heard it works but I haven't tried it.

Does anyone know if this same axle bolt trick can be done with the KZ1000 (J engine)?

I've never taken off a rotor, but I may have to do it. Can someone please explain how you do this with the axle bolt?

Thanks.

It works on all the other KZ's, either the rear axle or the steering stem bolt (or both), so it should work on the J motor.

Take out the bolt that holds the rotor on, screw in the axle or steering stem bolt (preferably the axle), make sure it's as tight as possible, smack the end of the bolt with a large hammer (and I don't mean a love tap, give it a good hard smack), and it should pop right off. If it don't then tighten the bolt/axle and do it again.

Do not under any circumstances hit the rotor with a hammer.

Haven't tried it on the J, but it works that way on the others.

steell wrote:

It works on all the other KZ's, either the rear axle or the steering stem bolt (or both), so it should work on the J motor.

Take out the bolt that holds the rotor on, screw in the axle or steering stem bolt (preferably the axle), make sure it's as tight as possible, smack the end of the bolt with a large hammer (and I don't mean a love tap, give it a good hard smack), and it should pop right off. If it don't then tighten the bolt/axle and do it again.

Do not under any circumstances hit the rotor with a hammer.

Haven't tried it on the J, but it works that way on the others.

Thanks, Steell. I'll give that a try if it turns out I need to get the rotor off. As I posted in my "Loud Clunk" thread, I'm having issues with my starting system "skipping" while cranking. This started happening after I installed the 1135 10.25 kit on the bike. The starter cranks REAL SLOW and then sounds like it skips gears. Battery is new and fully charged. Starter gear looks good. Someone suggested maybe the stock starter doesn't have enough torque to crank the new pistons, and perhaps that is cauing the starter clutch to not engage fully.

So I ordered a Honda CB900f starter from Ebay and am waiting for it to come. I've read this is a common bolt-on fix for big bore converts with starter problems. So I'll try that first to see if that solves the skipping problem. If not, next step is to pull the rotor and take a look at the starter clutch condition.

Thanks for the axle bolt tip.

I had that clunk in a z1 motor and traced it to the altenator rotor bolt. the bolt would back out and the rotor would slap the stator. Charging system died as it took out the stator, the starter would also do what you described as the starter gear got loose with the rotor. The steering bolt worked like a charm. A little loctite and a new stator and the clunk went away.