Redo'ing the 1000 J

Heya all, I'm going through a veeeery slow process of taking my poor old 1000 J and rebuilding it.

Comparing prices, it seems its cheaper for me to get a 1075 kit than 1st over pistons so I'll definitely go that route.

Now I know I'm going to buy new cams, valves, and have the head mildly ported (I'm not going overboard)

Any suggestions for valves and cams (Web Cam I know, but not sure which one to get) for brands etc?

Oh yeah, I also plan on replacing the cam chain and guides as well.

the j series already has a pretty decent head compared to a z motor id say use your stock valves with new guides and a good valve job.the cams depend on what you want to do with motor;)

You should plan on making the bottom end as strong as you can. (welded crank, APE studs, main bearing support) That way when you get bored with the 1075 and want to go bigger, you wont have to tear it all the way down.

Cool, crank is out to be welded at the moment.

I think headwise was my biggest concern, and whether porting was even neccessary or if I should change cams really.

I want to have the extra oomph of the 1075, but really want to keep reliability for everyday use if I want.

Greetings,
I purchased some 38.5mm stainless intakes (the max oversize for stock seats) to go in a pristine "J" head I am building up to later switch onto my current ride when ready. Their pictures of the results look amazing!

The shop that did the piston boring job for me quoted an extra $25 per valve to properly 'sink' them deeper into the valve seats; including also trimming the stems to offset the difference. It is a correct thing for the machinist to do in order to maintain minimum valve-to-valve clearance.

I mention it because it is reasonable to think that any other quality 'shop' would also charge extra for 'oversize' anything. It is something to think about. An extra $100 or $200 or maybe more, on top of a true quality valve job etc. is no small thing to me!! :sick: :sick:

I actually sent a quote request to "Extrude Hone" about getting my head ported using their process. They quoted me $495 and two weeks. Posted below is the mail.

[""Todd, hello, for the KZ1000 cylinder head we only offer level 1 processing. The cost is $495. The turn around time is app. 2 weeks. Air flow increases are app. 15%- 20%.
Thanks,

Rick Miller
Automotive Project Manager
Extrude Hone Corp.
1 Industry Blvd.
P.O. Box 1000
Irwin, Pa. 15642
800-613-1065
cell 724-396-1512
fax 724-863-8759
rick.miller@extrudehone.com
www.extrudehone.com

Todd <tuxedotito@msn.com>
06/12/2007 11:45 PM
To rick.miller@extrudehone.com, tuxedotito@msn.com
cc
Subject: Request information from gethoned.com

>
Todd Julian Requests information regarding; support

Todd can be reached at:
Company: KZRiders
Address: xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
City: Weston
State: FL
Zip: xxxxxxxxx

email: tuxedotito@msn.com

Todd had the following comments or questions:
Dear Sirs,
I am curious about your honing process for a Kawasaki KZ1000 cylinder head. The head is air cooled aluminum, inline four cylinder, and two valves per cylinder. The head has already been hot-tanked, glass beaded and pressure washed; valve guides have also been removed.
Could you please give me a breakdown of some options, average turnaround, and of course expenses!
Regards,
Todd Julian""]

$495 is in the ballpark for welding a crank. I am seriously considering it after some other things are out of the way.:whistle:

I am in no way connected to the company...just thought it was a neat thing to have done to my parts.

Thankfully being in the industry for 18 years Ive made good friends to help keep the costs down.

The gentleman welding the crank has 30+years experience and does the welding for our performance ATV's we build at the shop here.

The gentleman doing the boring and headwork normally does the NASCAR West guys and stock cars, along with race bikes for certain manufacturers.

And finally, a good friend is helping me with the assembly process who has been a mc tech for 30+ years as well, so I'm pretty good hands.

My main concern is that I dont want to go overboard with mods so I lose my reliability for every day use if I choose.

My thoughts:

If you want to keep the streetability have your guy 'clean up' the intake ramps and not go too heavy. Match the manifolds to the intakes (a process not necessary on today's bikes because of super-fine tolerances in that area...but with the older bikes intake ports and manifold boots can have unbelievable mis-matches that would cause un-equal intake dynamics)...your guy will see what I'm talking about. Smoothing the intake patch with a slight port job and slightly larger valves will make the thing maintain most of the velocity and yield way more volume. You should see a healthy performance gain without suffering any low-end loss.

Sweet.

Hey I cant thank you guys enough for your responses and help.

Keep us posted.

OH, and pics are good!!!