1978 kz1000a renew and revenge project

Cheapest thing I could find but really flimsy. Thank you for the great advice though. Im hoping the center stand im installing will do what i need and I can toss those stands.

no clutch slip. This bike was a victim of hurricane Milton and the clutch (entire engine) was full of rust. i pulled it apart and found some broken discs and springs so I replaced it. The kit from z1 is the APE kit I believe. Heavier springs and more disks. Im going to order stock springs and see how it does with those.

Yes, I will tune each carb with the wide band. Its not necessary but Im picky about startup, idle, throttle response, mid and open throttle so the wide band will take months off of dialing it all in. so thats 6 variables if you count synchronization and if you mess with one it makes changes across 1 or more of the others. valve clearance, exhaust, intake….Im going to mess with it all and dialing the bike back in is pretty easy when you are just watching an far change. 

Got to say your obsession with "perfection" is admirable, however I think you will be in danger of "losing your mind". I am a fan of AFR however trying to set individual cylinders AFR on a carb motor will be challenging. By the time you get to the last one the latent heat around the motor will increase the "intake air temp" so by the time you have finished #4 will be different to #1 and the next morning when you roll it outside (dependent on the weather) they will have all changed again !! and probably again in the afternoon  good luck
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its a special kind of OCD you get from programming fuel and ignition maps. Once the bike is warmed up it doesnt vary much. It also helps if you live in the land of flat and warm. I’ve done this to a few suzuki katanas in the past. It works. Each bike is its own beast but those suzukis sounded like they were modern fuel injected bikes. Hopefully a little luck and allot of work and the KZ will too.

As long as you guys derail the thread in a way im interested im completely ok with it. Im interested in lithium batteries. My KTM and Suzuki loved lithium and the voltage changes like any alternator does. Ive watched the BMS disconnect at 14.65 volts and it also has a peak current limit so there are no fires (these are LIFE and not LIPO). I have blown up lots of LIPOs in RC racing. Why should I be concerned about varying voltage? I thought that rectifiers had a little AC left in the waveform or something but that was a long time ago when I remembered.
 

most lithium batteries don't like big voltage swings, they will handle it for a while and then start to fail. Earth-x recommends 13.8V-14.6V,  Shorai recommends between 13.1V and 14.8V. That being said I had SV650 race bike that measured within these parameters but it bricked 2 batteries with the OEM R/R. Luckily Shorai was good with their warranty and sent me replacements but when they sent me the last one they said "no more" so I then bought a lithium specific R/R and haven't had any issues since.

I welded the joints on those stands and it stiffened them up. 

I learned that you have to balance all of the cells in a battery because allot of the MFGs dont. How do you do that when you cant get to the individual cells? Use a bench lab supply. charge at .010 amps to 14.65.
If one cell is high and one cell is low the BMS wont balance them. This is how the one that is high ends up doing all the work and a LIFE dies or worse. The BMS wont begin to balance the cells until the pack reads near max but the balance circuit is only good for about .01 amps. The BMS will fill the low cell at .01 but if you go any higher the high cell will get current and shut the BMS off at 14.65. You can bulk charge at a higher rate until the bms shuts off the charge (indicated by amps going to 0) then set to .01 and it might take a couple of days. This is more common than you think considering where these batteries come from and a single cell working 2x its design spec.  Most BMS will shut off current at about 14.1 because internally one cell is too high. if you can keep that cell from charging by letting the BMS charge the low cells the BMS wont shutoff until 14.65. This is how you know all cells are balanced. Do it once or twice a year. 

if you want a life to live balance it. if you want it to live longer dont let it sit at high or low voltage. both states damage it. But thats ok because 3.3 volts per cell is about 13.2. Should i expect to see 13.2 out of the rectifier? the tell tale sign that one cell is doing more than the work its designed for is to set a bench supply to 14.65 and I’ll bet that the BMS disconnects it at 14.1.


It sounds like one of those problems I can help with after I get the big ticket stuff done. Thanks for the info.