1978 kz1000a renew and revenge project
- bry195
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Re: 1978 kz1000a renew and revenge project
22 Jan 2025 11:55
Cheapest thing I could find but really flimsy. Thank you for the great advice though. Im hoping the center stand im installing will do what i need and I can toss those stands.
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- bry195
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Re: 1978 kz1000a renew and revenge project
22 Jan 2025 12:15
no clutch slip. This bike was a victim of hurricane Milton and the clutch (entire engine) was full of rust. i pulled it apart and found some broken discs and springs so I replaced it. The kit from z1 is the APE kit I believe. Heavier springs and more disks. Im going to order stock springs and see how it does with those.
Yes, I will tune each carb with the wide band. Its not necessary but Im picky about startup, idle, throttle response, mid and open throttle so the wide band will take months off of dialing it all in. so thats 6 variables if you count synchronization and if you mess with one it makes changes across 1 or more of the others. valve clearance, exhaust, intake….Im going to mess with it all and dialing the bike back in is pretty easy when you are just watching an far change.
Yes, I will tune each carb with the wide band. Its not necessary but Im picky about startup, idle, throttle response, mid and open throttle so the wide band will take months off of dialing it all in. so thats 6 variables if you count synchronization and if you mess with one it makes changes across 1 or more of the others. valve clearance, exhaust, intake….Im going to mess with it all and dialing the bike back in is pretty easy when you are just watching an far change.
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- Wookie58
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Re: 1978 kz1000a renew and revenge project
22 Jan 2025 12:42
Got to say your obsession with "perfection" is admirable, however I think you will be in danger of "losing your mind". I am a fan of AFR however trying to set individual cylinders AFR on a carb motor will be challenging. By the time you get to the last one the latent heat around the motor will increase the "intake air temp" so by the time you have finished #4 will be different to #1 and the next morning when you roll it outside (dependent on the weather) they will have all changed again !! and probably again in the afternoon
good luck 
.

.
1982 KZ1000 Ltd
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/617631...-82-begins?start=192
kzrider.com/filebase-alias?view=download...d-fault-diagnosis&ca
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/617631...-82-begins?start=192
kzrider.com/filebase-alias?view=download...d-fault-diagnosis&ca
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- bry195
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Re: 1978 kz1000a renew and revenge project
22 Jan 2025 14:37 - 22 Jan 2025 15:21
its a special kind of OCD you get from programming fuel and ignition maps. Once the bike is warmed up it doesnt vary much. It also helps if you live in the land of flat and warm. I’ve done this to a few suzuki katanas in the past. It works. Each bike is its own beast but those suzukis sounded like they were modern fuel injected bikes. Hopefully a little luck and allot of work and the KZ will too.
As long as you guys derail the thread in a way im interested im completely ok with it. Im interested in lithium batteries. My KTM and Suzuki loved lithium and the voltage changes like any alternator does. Ive watched the BMS disconnect at 14.65 volts and it also has a peak current limit so there are no fires (these are LIFE and not LIPO). I have blown up lots of LIPOs in RC racing. Why should I be concerned about varying voltage? I thought that rectifiers had a little AC left in the waveform or something but that was a long time ago when I remembered.
As long as you guys derail the thread in a way im interested im completely ok with it. Im interested in lithium batteries. My KTM and Suzuki loved lithium and the voltage changes like any alternator does. Ive watched the BMS disconnect at 14.65 volts and it also has a peak current limit so there are no fires (these are LIFE and not LIPO). I have blown up lots of LIPOs in RC racing. Why should I be concerned about varying voltage? I thought that rectifiers had a little AC left in the waveform or something but that was a long time ago when I remembered.
Last edit: 22 Jan 2025 15:21 by bry195.
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- DoctoRot
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Re: 1978 kz1000a renew and revenge project
22 Jan 2025 15:18
most lithium batteries don't like big voltage swings, they will handle it for a while and then start to fail. Earth-x recommends 13.8V-14.6V, Shorai recommends between 13.1V and 14.8V. That being said I had SV650 race bike that measured within these parameters but it bricked 2 batteries with the OEM R/R. Luckily Shorai was good with their warranty and sent me replacements but when they sent me the last one they said "no more" so I then bought a lithium specific R/R and haven't had any issues since.
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Re: 1978 kz1000a renew and revenge project
22 Jan 2025 15:27
I welded the joints on those stands and it stiffened them up.
Scotty
1974 Z1A
1015
welded Z1 crank
Andrews 1X Cams
Delkevic 4 into 1
Superbike bars
530 conversion
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Re: 1978 kz1000a renew and revenge project
22 Jan 2025 15:54 - 22 Jan 2025 19:20
I learned that you have to balance all of the cells in a battery because allot of the MFGs dont. How do you do that when you cant get to the individual cells? Use a bench lab supply. charge at .010 amps to 14.65.
If one cell is high and one cell is low the BMS wont balance them. This is how the one that is high ends up doing all the work and a LIFE dies or worse. The BMS wont begin to balance the cells until the pack reads near max but the balance circuit is only good for about .01 amps. The BMS will fill the low cell at .01 but if you go any higher the high cell will get current and shut the BMS off at 14.65. You can bulk charge at a higher rate until the bms shuts off the charge (indicated by amps going to 0) then set to .01 and it might take a couple of days. This is more common than you think considering where these batteries come from and a single cell working 2x its design spec. Most BMS will shut off current at about 14.1 because internally one cell is too high. if you can keep that cell from charging by letting the BMS charge the low cells the BMS wont shutoff until 14.65. This is how you know all cells are balanced. Do it once or twice a year.
if you want a life to live balance it. if you want it to live longer dont let it sit at high or low voltage. both states damage it. But thats ok because 3.3 volts per cell is about 13.2. Should i expect to see 13.2 out of the rectifier? the tell tale sign that one cell is doing more than the work its designed for is to set a bench supply to 14.65 and I’ll bet that the BMS disconnects it at 14.1.
It sounds like one of those problems I can help with after I get the big ticket stuff done. Thanks for the info.
If one cell is high and one cell is low the BMS wont balance them. This is how the one that is high ends up doing all the work and a LIFE dies or worse. The BMS wont begin to balance the cells until the pack reads near max but the balance circuit is only good for about .01 amps. The BMS will fill the low cell at .01 but if you go any higher the high cell will get current and shut the BMS off at 14.65. You can bulk charge at a higher rate until the bms shuts off the charge (indicated by amps going to 0) then set to .01 and it might take a couple of days. This is more common than you think considering where these batteries come from and a single cell working 2x its design spec. Most BMS will shut off current at about 14.1 because internally one cell is too high. if you can keep that cell from charging by letting the BMS charge the low cells the BMS wont shutoff until 14.65. This is how you know all cells are balanced. Do it once or twice a year.
if you want a life to live balance it. if you want it to live longer dont let it sit at high or low voltage. both states damage it. But thats ok because 3.3 volts per cell is about 13.2. Should i expect to see 13.2 out of the rectifier? the tell tale sign that one cell is doing more than the work its designed for is to set a bench supply to 14.65 and I’ll bet that the BMS disconnects it at 14.1.
It sounds like one of those problems I can help with after I get the big ticket stuff done. Thanks for the info.
Last edit: 22 Jan 2025 19:20 by bry195.
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- bry195
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Re: 1978 kz1000a renew and revenge project
Yesterday 19:41 - Yesterday 19:59I changed all the idle jets and got everything to between 12 and 13 AFR on all carbs. The pictures dont show that really. The reason is that when you have the top caps off to sync you get a leak that changes idle afr. But the sawtooth pattern you see in the pictures is me blipping the throttle to adjust the needles so lots of synchronizing adjustments going on. 2 cylinders look pretty good and two cylinders look lean. But it took allot of work to get it to this point and I only have one more slot let on those needles so fingers crossed. Hopefully I can get to the rest this coming weekend.
These are VM26 on kz1000a1 with pods. Here is the current settings.
2 and 3 need another clip
5dl31
1-15, 122.5, clip 2
2-12.5, 122.5, clip 1 (will be on clip 1 this weekend)
3-15, 122.5, clip 1 (will be on clip 1 this weekend)
4-12.5, 122.5, clip 2
Couple lessons learned.
1-Ive bought multiple sets of idle jets on Amazon. one set actually bent and broke when screwed down. If you feel resistance check them before cranking down.
2-test all carb circuits with a leak tester (small handheld pump). it found leaky chokes and also told me when I had them cleaned enough.
3-when the carb top caps are not on your idle circuit afr will be off.
4-have a timing light. I wasted allot of time tuning a cylinder that wasnt firing as keeping the light handy keeps you from adjusting when you a flaky ignition connection.
5-Epoxy doesnt seal a crack in a carb bowl for very long.
6-You guys probably know that it’s easier to pull the needles with the carbs mounted in the bike. That sped up the iterations considerably.
7-when you have the synchronizer on the bike it messes up the afr
Problem I stil have.
I use a thermal camera on the header tubes. #1 is still considerably cooler than all the rest but the afr is spot on. Something to ponder. Throttle is snappy but it stumbles periodicly below 1500 rpm. I can see that #1 misses a couple ignition cycles at low rpm at the same time as the stumble. It has all new wires coils and dynatech ignition that I timed to 35 degrees. #4 doesnt stumble. The gap on plug 1 is about .8mm. I may have a bad plug (it didnt fire at all until i cleaned it). I know I have a bad connection in a bullet connector going to the coil for 1,4. Maybe the ignition sensor for 1,4 is slightly too far away from the lobe that triggers it but i doubt it because 4 doesnt stumble.
You can see that I blipped the throttle to 3/4 on two cylinders and it went very lean. It also bogged at 3/4. Im hoping another need clip position will resolve or I have potentially started getting into the main circuit. the time stamps are correct for order. cylinder 1 then 2 then 3 then 4.
Green is AFR 12 blue, is below that. Red starts at 14.7. The afr at idle (steady state) fluctuates about .8. Pretty good for old carbs on an old bike with an ignition problem and roughed in synch.
Last edit: Yesterday 19:59 by bry195.
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