1981 GPz1100 B1 Rstomod / ELR "Tribute"

Another I've seen:

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I'm differently familiar with that color scheme, but it just occurred to me to wonder if that base light blue is the same color used on the 1978 Z1R (and kz650C). In these pictures it looks very similar. It would be cool to put those stripes on a Z1R.

Stardust Silver?

Mikaw post=862712Stardust Silver?

That was the name used for the 1978 Z1R.  It's also the same name shown in this 1984 KZ1100R brochure.  However, the photo in the brochure looks like regular old silver-silver, as opposed to the light-blue-silver of the Z1R or the other photos in this thread.  

www.kz1000r.com/index.php/z1100r-1984-sales-brochure
www.kz1000r.com/index.php/kz1100r-1984-sales-brochure

Hi again Folks.

Here is an update on progress:

Most of the wiring had been seriously butchered, and almost all of the connectors were badly damaged,
some broken completely. The 9 pin main connector fell to pieces when I unplugged it!


I found suitable, but not replica, connectors on Ebay (are "replica" connectors even available?) and replaced them one by one...


 I had to replace the un-serviceable GPz1100 B1 instrument cluster with an "almost new" unit from
a B2, so, some wiring adaptation / modification was required. 
This modification to the wiring was effected INSIDE the head-light bucket, using the new connectors. 


One thing that intrigued me is that the oil pressure switch signal...
The oil pressure switch on the B1 "opens" when oil pressure is present, but the instrument cluster
required the opposite signal condition!
So I had to "invert" the signal, using a 12 volt relay, neatly hidden inside the head-light.

As you know, mounting hardware for the bikini fairing is no longer available, so I set about designing the brackets
that would be suitable for 3D printing. Obviously the parts had to be "thickened" in certain areas, owing to the
material properties of the plastic. I also added some "strengthening" gussets and "features" to ensure sufficient strength.




Once that was done, I could figure out the correct mounting position for the B2 instrument cluster, which has to fit "inside" the fairing,
while at the same time be suitably spaced from the screen.
This turned out to be quite simple. I simply drilled and tapped metric 6mm mounting holes in the top triple-clamp.
I also 3D printed some vibration isolation pads that did the job nicely.
I used a material called TPE (Thermoplastic Elastomer), which is quite flexible.



Next was to try to replicate the "cover" that hides the instrument cluster mountings and the ignition switch body.
The idea was to have the cover look like the Eddie Lawson / 1100R instruments, as far as possible.
However, the B1 ignition switch is offset to the left (what were they thinking!) so I had to incorporate this "offset" into my design.
Using some pictures of the 1100R cover (and a very good photo from member  hx35w ) , I 3D modled a cover to suit...
Then, onto my 3D printer...  26 hours of printing later...


I am quite happy with the result.
           Before                                         /                                             After


I think the result is usable!
(waiting delivery of a small Kawasaki badge that fits between the handlebar clamps)


Some other small things that I have done are:
 
Three of the seat-pan resting blocks were missing, so I designed and printed those as well.
 
The supplied ignition key did not work in the seat lock, or the helmet lock, so I disassembled both,
   and, by re-arranging the internal lock "tumblers", both now work!
   (I know, I know, the number on the lock will no longer match the key!)
 
I ordered a set of "pattern" turn signals from Hendler (Ebay) and when they arrived I was disgusted to find that they are supplied WITHOUT
a sealing gasket, or a mounting nut ( which has an obscure 10mm x 1mm pitch thread!)
So, I designed a suitable gasket and 3D printed them.  I also had to 3D print the four vibration isolation inserts.

I am still waiting (THREE MONTHS!) for delivery of the 1000J airbox and boots (and some other bits) that
I found on Ebay, so mounting that will be next. I won't bother tuning the BS34 carburettors before this is done.

Still to do are: the fork-seals and steering head bearings replaced with tapered roller bearings.

I ordered a good quality Lawson replica decal set and once that arrives... PAINT!

The replica 1100R seat-cover has arrived, so I will fit that soon.

Oh, and I'm busy designing a 3D printable chain-guard. (searched far and wide for one!)

 

Cheers for now.

H.

Great work, looking really good 

I fit the seat cover this evening.
Hard work to stretch and pull it to, erm, "sit" properly.
Worked up quite a sweat!

I am mostly satisfied with the result.
 My previous experience fitting a new cover to my GPz550D1 really helped.

A couple of hours in the sun will allow it to "form" a more natural shape, as did the D1 cover.


 

Nice work on the 3D printing, those look quality. I have an B1 and was going to fit a b2 cowl and clocks next year, maybe ill come knocking for copies of what you made to make you a few dollars.

Sure. No problem.

Sharing is caring! 

Howard,
   nice job on saving another GPz. Well done. I'm getting kinda jealous of y'all with the 3d printers & such...

Regarding electrical plugs... they are somewhat universal. I have purchased them from one of our state side vendors. Z1 enterprises.    www.z1enterprises.com/

Keep up the good work.

Thank-you!

I found these on Ebay...
The brass plug internals are identical to the 'saki plugs and at around 80 cents a plug "set", pretty good value.

Hi Howard, if you are not concerned about 100% originality you might want to consider the below. These connectors have been common in the automotive world for many years, they have seals around each wire and between the two halves of the plug (available with 1 - 6 locations) making them ideal for a bike as they are totally weatherproof. they cost a little more but I think it's worth it



 

Wow, those do look good... probable submersible !